“Cleanliness is next to Godliness” declares a small poster in the kitchen of Vedas. Perched over burnished stoves and dozens of spotless fishbowl-sized spice jars, it’s visible through the large window that divides kitchen and dining room, amidst a blur of activity as six chefs whirl around the kitchen on Sunday morning. While all too many restaurant brunches may unload a smorgasbord of Saturday night’s leftovers, Vedas offers a rich spread of Subcontinental favorites and uncommon morsels, all freshly prepared. In the warm atmosphere of delicately carved wood paneling and airy tabla beats, we found Sunday brunch in Shanghai’s finest Indian restaurant to be a relaxed, social experience. Make your way to the spread and choose from a dozen different dishes, starting with a colorful fresh vegetable tray and dollops of tamarind and mint sauces. Vedas is exceptional not just in its reverent cleanliness, but also the balance of flavors. The vindaloo’s vinegar kick was just right, while an authentic Kerala dahi wala (marinated chicken with creamy yogurt) skipped cloying sweetness for a tangy, spicy richness. Along with his fine cuisine, friendly owner Anoop enjoys visiting tables to offer up griddle-hot samples of some of India’s favorite street breakfasts. The hearty, greasy paratas with spiced radish will take the edge off any hangover, while soothingly spiced masala tea will ease you into a satisfied afternoon spent reclining in Vedas’ elegant bar, patting your belly.

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