What: Top-notch French bistro in the Ferguson Lane complex on Wukang Lu – a promising new slice of bijoux real estate in the sleepiest part of the former French enclave. Look: Zinc bar with black tiled backdrop; hardwood floors and mod light bulbs whose dim filaments softly illuminate the dining room. Franck looks just it should – a slightly modern take on a tried and tested French formula.

Food: Perfectly cooked bistro classics with a subtle contemporary edge. Their chalkboards advertize specials that change daily, featuring ingredients fresh from the market. We gobbled down a salad with egg and wonderful homemade mayonnaise, thick spears of firm white asparagus lacquered with butter and lemon juice, and a tender veal tongue and kidney atop potato mash. The wine list is exclusively French and a touch eclectic (at least for this market) something wine drinkers will undoubtedly appreciate.

People: Primarily French on our visit, and probably yours too.

Bill: Around ¥700 for two, with drinks.

More French restaurants in French Concession, Shanghai