The buzz: South American rotisserie chicken, fast.

The décor: We reckon the guys behind Commando Chicken were banking on delivery trade more than eat-in. That’s not to say that the restaurant interior is bad. It’s actually very cute – three or four little tables, and stools at the window – but it looks like a takeaway.

The food: My dining partner and I both ordered the quarter chicken set: a choice of garlic or regular fries, a quarter chicken, a salad, and a soft drink, for ¥40. A zippy five minutes later, a single basket of fries and chicken arrived at our table, along with a bowl of salad. “Cute,” my partner said. “They’ve combined our portions.” We tucked in, impressed by the herby flavour of the chicken and the crispy garlic fries. We’d chosen the Commando Sauce, which was a spicy chipotle-style relish. All good. We ate, and were sated. Then, when the bill came, we discovered that we’d only been charged for one portion. When alerted the waitress to this error, she assured us that she’d brought us what we’d ordered: a single serving to share. A single ¥40 quarter chicken dinner set had fed two diners quite happily. Impressive value.

The drinks: We got free cola with our sets, but beer is also available - ¥20 for a small Tsingtao.

Why you’ll be back: If you’re craving South American-style chicken, give them a call or tuck yourself into their miniature restaurant. Big portions and low prices make it a welcome addition to the French Concession. It’s just a shame it isn’t open later, for post-drinking snacks.