For dinner, one of the most stylish places in town is Wild Rice in a beautifully renovated old villa, with a modern glass-walled atrium in back - the most desirable spot - and contemporary art. The restaurant made it onto "Conde Nast Traveler" magazine's international Hot 100 Tables list for 2004. The food is Vietnamese, locally sourced and delicious, although the portions are a bit on the small size: try the soft-shelled crab, and fish stew with coconut milk, onions and green peppers.