Veganerie made its name as a bakery dishing out desserts that look anything but dairy-free. At this larger, altogether more photogenic, restaurant they add plant-based savory dishes to the menu.

Tucked behind Benjasiri Park, the space is a modern-rustic delight (concrete and wood meet dangling lamps and ferns) flooded with natural light. If it wasn’t for the heaving club soundtrack, we’d be happy to while away an afternoon here.

The food and drink selection is huge and keeps growing judging by the extra pages sticking out of the thick menu: all-day breakfast, salads, sandwiches, curries, pastas, smoothies, juices, you name it. Dishes feature a variety meat substitutes. The zucchini noodles with tomato and basil sauce (B230) features imported soy sausage that convincingly replicates the texture of frankfurt (for better or worse), while the pulled “pork” burger (with fries, B290) is made with deliciously smoky mushrooms. Both boast enjoyable flavors, but our complaints are about the finer details. On our last visit, both were served lukewarm; the former featuring overly watery “zoodles,” the latter coming with bland, store-bought sauces.

The perfectly crisp fried spring rolls (B190), though, put many of their meaty counterparts to shame, stuffed with tasty glass noodles, tofu and greens, and coming with a house-made sweet and sour sauce that’s thick and swimming with veggies. Aromatic and nicely textured, the sweet potato and chickpea coconut curry rice bowl (B200) suffers only from the accompanying dry rice.

Non-vegans might argue these dishes play things a bit safe, but at least they’re reliable. Outsiders can expect more fireworks with the shop’s much-loved desserts like vegan waffles (from B165), ice cream (from B55) and frappes—try the spectacular Nutella option (B165), a straw-clogging blend of peanut butter, cashews, banana, organic soy milk and vegan chocolate ice cream.

Veganerie Concept is part of a new brigade of restaurants taking “healthy” eating in a mainstream direction. Like at Broccoli Revolution, you have to pay a bit more for the pleasure; unlike at Broccoli Revolution, there’s sadly no booze. Ultimately this is a solid balance between substance and style that should appease vegans, if not all their meat-loving buddies.

This review took place in September 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.