Located right next to its sister restaurants S&P and Maisen, this branch of Vanilla offers an intriguing focus on old-school Thai cuisine. As expected for the Vanilla brand, the décor is tastefully chic. The wood-dominated restaurant offers a Japanese-inspired vibe, while the menu is all about the classics with a few rare old dishes and obligatory fusion options thrown in.

Some dishes surprisingly succeed, such as the simple khao pad namprik pla too (rice with chili shrimp paste, B150) which comes with a piece of fried pla too (mackerel). It’s well-balanced and very comforting, while the rice itself is good quality—dense and not soggy. The kratiem tord (deep-fried garlic) provides a wonderful crunchy texture with every bite. The lon kapi kua (shrimp paste with coconut milk, B130) is like a cross between satay sauce and a touch of namprik kapi, and is nicely presented with freshly-cooked vegetables. The dish is intense and silky, we just wish the kapi were a bit more pungent.

To appease the crowds, there are also some fusion dishes, such as the spaghetti pad sator (stir-fried spaghetti with bitter beans and shrimps, B165), which is not bad. Even though the pasta is soggy, as we’ve come to expect from most fusion restaurants in town, the sator is evidently well-picked and provides a very rewarding flavor. The real letdown is the kanom jeen namya poo (cold rice noodles with crab and coconut sauce, B185). It’s supposed to be rich, fragrant and flavorful, but here it’s really dull, as if there is barely any chili paste or other seasonings.

Leave room for the yummy desserts like the tubtab (peanut bar, B150) with milk ice cream, which is pure indulgence. The quality of the food here is quite impressive for a restaurant in the mall, but with S&P’s great power and influence, we feel they could take the concept further and create a truly admirable restaurant. Overall, the style and design of the place impresses, some dishes are very comforting, and the decent lunch sets (B220) provide reason enough to go back from time to time.