This Yokahama-hailing chain doles out the kind of full-fat tonkotsu ramen that’s more typical of Southern Japan. It’s not the most mind-blowingly umami of versions, but we’ve had our share of decent bowls here in Thaniya (there’s another branch on Sukhumvit Soi 39). The pork-bone broth is definitely on the intense side of things, as in the salty, sharp and starchy Uchidaya tokusei ramen (B280) or the fiery “red” ramen (spicy miso, B220). The thick-cut pork belly tends to be a little dry for our tastes, but they make up for it with four hearty slices plus a generous amount of nori.

We do like the noodles, available in two sizes, which are nice and chewy. This led us to believe the tsukemen (dipping ramen with cold noodles, B270) would be a wise choice. We’re a big fan of this dish, especially Bankara’s incredible version, but Uchidaya’s is utter  disappointment. Available in “only” 20 servings a day, the lukewarm soup here is even more viscous and oily than the regular bowls of ramen, boasting a sickly sweet flavor that makes it a challenge to finish. While we’re used to the noodles being cold or room temperature, on our last visit the accompanying chicken slices were frosty as if plucked straight from an ice-cold fridge. We can’t recommend this dish.

Elsewhere on the menu there’s a surprising range of salads, but we’d also suggest steering clear of the izakaya staples like karaage (deep-fried chicken, B120) and gyoza (pan-fried pork dumplings, B100). Overly-spiced and slightly stale-tasting, the karaage is rather more reminiscent of KFC than we’d care for, while the rubbery, under-filled gyoza are a lifeless affair.

This den-like Silom restaurant tends to be pretty bustling at lunch time on weekdays, but this is one occasion we’re entirely not siding with the salarymen. Uchidaya does a solid if heavy-handed bowl of ramen, but this is Silom—home to Ramentei, Ippudo and a half-dozen impressive alternatives—so why settle for less?

This review took place in May 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.