Definitely not just another imported tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) specialist, Tonkatsu Wako makes you feel like you’re actually dining in Japan. And that’s not because it sits in the old-school Japanese department store Isetan.

On our last visit on a Saturday afternoon, we were a whopping tenth in the queue on arrival but everything was handled with the utmost efficiency.  A member of staff took our name and the number of our party, before giving us a menu and coming to take our order before we were seated. Once at our table, we were immediately served our drinks before the food arrived just a few minutes later.

Fried to crisp perfection, these golden cutlets are on another plane. We think the secret lies in the fresh bread crumbs, produced on-site from bread loaves every day. The fluffy yet crunchy results won’t scorch your palate, like some tonkatsu offerings. Beneath those delightful exteriors, the pork loin (B320 for a set) is tender while the tenderloin (B330 for a set) almost melts in your mouth. The nabe options (from B370/set), where the fried cutlets are served in egg soup, are just as delicious. Do order the deep-fried eggplant sandwich with minced beef and pork (B80) as a side, too!

Here, as at most tonkatsu joints, your set includes refillable rice, miso soup, cabbage and tea. Moreover, we like that each refill of the springy Japanese rice comes in a hot iron pot (kamameshi), rather than being served bowl by bowl. Service is also spot on—you’re greeted by a chorus of “irasshaimase,” while staff march around intent on refilling your plate of crisp cabbage and even bringing out toys to kids.

With a price range comparable to Saboten and Maisen, there’s little wonder why diners choose to wait a little longer for Tonkatsu Wako’s superior cutlets. Good news is they’ve just opened a second branch in Siam Center, too. No outside alcohol

This review took place in April 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.