Japan lands in Victory Monument with koi ponds, lush gardens and rare imports.
The buzz: Following on from their French-Japanese opening Tenshino, Pullman King Power now boasts Bangkok’s latest omakase ("chef's selection") restaurant. Led by Japanese-American chef Goji Kobayashi, previously of Wako in San Francisco, Tenko offers an intimate curated dining experience filled with the finest ingredients flown fresh from Japan.
The decor: Though you pass through the hotel’s massive lobby to reach Tenko, the restaurant feels more like a standalone thanks to its location in a lush botanical garden out the back, surrounded by koi ponds. Encased in vertical slat screens, the restaurant’s minimalist design and emphasis on natural stone and wood summon up Japan. Step inside and you’ll be met with a small reception area—which can be partitioned off for private gatherings—where inviting brown leather sofas sit in view of their sake selection. In the main room, the traditional blond wood counter offers firsthand views of chef Goji at work, with contemporary artwork lending a playful edge. Each course is matched with beautiful, hand-picked Japanese ceramics crafted by small artisanal potters, some of which exclusively for Tenko.
The food: As with any true omakase, the menu at Tenko reflects the changing seasons in Japan, with the ingredients flown in from Tokyo's Toyosu Market and other Japanese suppliers several times per week. While the menu changes daily, you can expect quality ingredients like Takeshima A4 wagyu beef, Hokkaido scallops, red sea urchin from Kyushu, rice from Niigata, and heirloom tomatoes from Yamanashi, treated to occasional seasonings like ponzu sauce or fresh yuzu. For now, just two 10-person seatings are offered per evening, when diners can choose between the Nigiri Course, priced at B4,500 for 14 dishes, and the Premium Omakase Course, where B6,000 translates to 21 dishes, both raw and cooked. Each meal starts with a selection of traditional nigiri sushi and ends with the usual suspects of Tamago and miso soup prior to dessert.
The drinks: Sake is the focus, with over 30 bottles on the menu from the light tasting yet fragrant Yamamoto Pure Black Junmai Ginjo (B750) to the richer Takizawa Tokujo Honjozo (B1500/bottle). There's also Japanese whiskey, like the Suntory Hibiki Japanese Harmony (B800), and a long wine list starting with the Austrian biodynamic white Weingut Zillinger, Grüner Veltliner Reflexion Kellerberg 2016 (B400 glass/B1,900 bottle). For the non-drinkers, there's a selection of green teas, like the Pure Ceremonial Matcha, Stone Mill Ground, Type A Nishio (B480). If you want to keep it simple, go for a cold Sapporo beer (B260).
Why we’d go back: The ability to savor Japan’s delicacies without having to fly there is a given. Throw in a lush location just a stone's throw from the BTS and a talented young chef who has perfected the art of sushi, and we’re sold. There are also plans to turn the reception area into a sake and tea lounge, meaning more time to work our way through all the labels. Megan Leon
|Address:||Tenko Omakase, G/F, Pullman King Power, 8-2 Rangnam Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||January, 2019|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sun 5-8:30pm|
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