The taste is everything you might hope for: tangy, indulgent, salty, juicy, guilty, good. For an extra B60, you can up the size of the beef patty in your cheeseburger (standard price B265) from 5oz (142g) to 7oz (200g)—one of a number of exhaustive customization options on the menu, and something we reckon is well worth doing since that beef is clearly the star of the show. Order it medium-rare (exactly how it comes) and the quality of the meat stands up perfectly to such light grill treatment. The only contentious thing about Teddy’s burgers is the bun, which is weirdly pale and tastes kind of like a doughnut. Not bad, but the last thing this burger needs is more richness.

 

Elsewhere on the menu you’ve got fairly standard burger diner fare, none of which, from what we’ve tried, comes close to the effort they put into the beef burgers. The breadcrumbed fish fillet burger (B195) tastes straight from the pedestrian fast food handbook, as do the “grilled mixed sausages” (B130), which leave a trail of oil and burned bits on their plate. All of it tastes fine enough, but where the burgers give the impression someone’s put effort into them, this stuff feels more like out-of-the-packet-and-into-the-fryer cooking.

 

Given the universal appeal of a good cheeseburger, we’re a bit surprised not to see Teddy’s busier on a Saturday night, especially since there’s no missing the open-fronted space with its mix of neon-lit ‘50s diner references and surf culture, right in the sweet spot at the entrance to the mall. If you’re ever in Gateway Ekamai and feel like skipping on the ramen, we reckon this one’s well worth a shot.

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This review took place in November 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.