BANGKOK RESTAURANT

Teddy's Bigger Burgers

Customized burgers c/o Hawaii.

3
Average: 3 (1 vote)

The Hawaiian franchise is the mall-based burger import it’s OK to frequent. Head here for no-nonsense, greasy, piled-high then glued-shut-with-cheese burgers like you see in Hollywood films. Order it medium-rare (exactly how it comes) and the quality of the meat stands up perfectly to its light grill treatment. The only contentious thing is the bun, which is weirdly pale, but the last thing this burger needs is more richness.

Teddy’s, a Hawaiian burger franchise which has since spread across America and to a few spots in Asia, deals in the kind of no-nonsense, greasy, piled-high then glued-shut-with-cheese burgers which those of us who didn’t grow up in the States could only ever look at in films and dream of one day tasting. Think about the “big kahuna” scene in Pulp Fiction and you’ll have a Teddy’s burger in your mind. They arrive at your table in little greaseproof paper pouches to catch the various fatty drips of cheese, sauce and meat juice, as well as with a plate and knife and fork to counter the inevitable collapse of the bun. 

The taste is everything you might hope for: tangy, indulgent, salty, juicy, guilty, good. For an extra B60, you can up the size of the beef patty in your cheeseburger (standard price B265) from 5oz (142g) to 7oz (200g)—one of a number of exhaustive customization options on the menu, and something we reckon is well worth doing since that beef is clearly the star of the show. Order it medium-rare (exactly how it comes) and the quality of the meat stands up perfectly to such light grill treatment. The only contentious thing about Teddy’s burgers is the bun, which is weirdly pale and tastes kind of like a doughnut. Not bad, but the last thing this burger needs is more richness.
 
Elsewhere on the menu you’ve got fairly standard burger diner fare, none of which, from what we’ve tried, comes close to the effort they put into the beef burgers. The breadcrumbed fish fillet burger (B195) tastes straight from the pedestrian fast food handbook, as do the “grilled mixed sausages” (B130), which leave a trail of oil and burned bits on their plate. All of it tastes fine enough, but where the burgers give the impression someone’s put effort into them, this stuff feels more like out-of-the-packet-and-into-the-fryer cooking.
 
Given the universal appeal of a good cheeseburger, we’re a bit surprised not to see Teddy’s busier on a Saturday night, especially since there’s no missing the open-fronted space with its mix of neon-lit ‘50s diner references and surf culture, right in the sweet spot at the entrance to the mall. If you’re ever in Gateway Ekamai and feel like skipping on the ramen, we reckon this one’s well worth a shot.

This review took place in November 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.

 

Venue Details
Address: Teddy's Bigger Burgers, G/F, Gateway Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, Thailand
Website: www.facebook.com/teddysburgersth
Area: Ekkamai
Cuisine: American, Burgers
Open since: July, 2015
Opening hours: daily 10am-10pm
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