With its three branches, in Paragon, Central Rama 3 and CentralWorld, the original Taling Pling on Pan Road has proven that fuss-free food in a cozy décor can be a winning recipe. Sure, the mall branches don’t quite have the same charm as the original (a place so overrun by tourists that reservations are a must), but Paragon’s is our favorite mall spin-off in the décor department. It is not minimalist—textured walls, screens of undulating twigs, chandeliers, paneled columns, plastic chairs and upholstered seats—but there’s something welcoming about the vibe this mix gives off, perhaps like being in the dining room of a “cool” spinster auntie—an auntie who can also cook pretty darn well. The sauces are all very light, with an MSG-free feel (although that could just be our imaginations), like in the stir-fried pak maeo (chaiyote stems). Despite its international following down on Pan Road, this Taling Pling’s clientele is mostly Thais, and spicy dishes, like the Southern-style pork don’t hold back on the heat. Neither are dishes excessively sweet, as is often the case in Bangkok—case in point, the gaeng som and its plump, perfectly cooked shrimps that are clearly thrown in at the last minute. There’s also a real attention to detail, as with the leafy greens accompanying the Southern-style pork or the delicately carved veggies with the crab dip, which is full of crab roe and pleasantly addictive. Maybe cool people don’t eat in malls but, in reality, we all do. And if it’s a Thai option you’re looking for, you could do much worse than this cozy spot and its authentic cuisine. Corkage B300.