New sushi restaurants are a dime a dozen in Bangkok, but if you fall for the hype behind every new opening you’re likely to miss the low-key, authentic charm of a spot like Suikin. Hidden down a dead-end soi next to the Bank of Ayudhya Building, this warm and welcoming two-story restaurant plays host to Japanese crowds who come in to discuss business over lunch (sets start from B200) or kaiseki (multi-course dinner, B1,600) at the communal table or in the private rooms. The menu’s got plenty of variety but even a common dish like the pork nabe (hot pot, B220) is comforting and worthy of praise. The slices of pork are tender and fresh, while the stock has a good body and a delicious porky flavor that has us licking our bowl clean. For those after raw fish, though, Suikin might not be ideal. The sashimi (B780 or B480 with local fish) here is not bad, but far from the best in town. Rather, the true appeal of the place lies in less common dishes like the mixed tofu platter (B180) which comes with four varieties. The tofu here has a wonderful homemade quality, from the mineoka tofu, which is dense in texture but addictively fragrant, to the simple tofu skin, nice and mild in flavor. Another appealing appetizer is the fish roe (B270), which is served like a sandwich on Chinese radish slices. It’s pungent and strong—great for those who like this particular delicacy. While the place does offer the highly-rated Saga beef (from B240 for sushi and B1,500 for 100 grams of steak), they also have low-budget alternatives that don’t disappoint. The beef grilled in hoba leaf (B270), for instance, is delectable, with its smoky aroma and serving of luscious eggplant. The tuna roll (B250), marinated with sesame oil, is topped with shiso leaf which carries a nice herbal aroma and adds a satisfying texture. The service is certainly hit-and-miss but we can just about forgive them due to the impressive Japanese fare on offer. (On our last visit, we did also appreciate that the Japanese chef came out of the kitchen to inform us that one of the dishes we ordered was unavailable.) Skip the raw fish and Suikin makes for a great option for any meal, especially as prices are very reasonable for a restaurant so adept at what it does.