Souffle and Me
This Iron Chef's restaurant goes beyond souffle.
Chef Thanunya “Gai” Kaikaew is the only female chef from the Iron Chef Thailand TV show. Her specialization lies in sweets, so it’s no surprise that desserts star at her restaurant. The lovely wooden house and garden her restaurant inhabits wouldn’t be packed out on weekends were it only for maple syrup souffles, though. Thanunya also has a solid savory menu with plenty of brunchy nods; and she is backed by impeccable service.
In the plate, flavors are comforting but not always all that refined. There’s a sameness to many dishes (eggs, truffle oil and cheese will only get you so far) and the pasta is disappointing, be it the oily-yet-dry spaghetti with bacon and garlic (a special on our last visit, B240) or the overly salty gnocchi served with the roasted barramundi (B340). Nor will you see high-end produce here like Iberico ham or delicate seasonal greens from the Royal Projects.
Be that as it may, it’s all very solidly executed. So that while the ratatouille and ham frittata (B240) doesn’t really contain a ratatouille, the sprinkling of veggies at the bottom of this cheesy little casserole still makes for a lovely Sunday treat. We recommend the lobster souffle (B980): the whole lobster’s charred notes, the eggwhite-only souffle and the umami bisque combine beautifully. As for that aforementioned barramundi, despite underwhelming sides, the fish itself is perfectly cooked and the tiny dash of tapenade (black olive paste) makes for a great touch.
The souffles are all made fresh (you can see them literally whipped up in the open kitchen) and are consistently delicious. The chocolate souffle’s (B260) molten center is like the fluffiest lava cake you’ve ever had. The Osaka cream souffle (B280, served with a floral honey ice cream that has unusual rosemary notes) is so rich it feels like a meal of its own, an equally decadent yet more delicate answer to After You’s honey toast.
When a place is this popular with Bangkok’s black-van-driven bourgeoisie, there’s legitimate concern that it might be nothing more than a selfie opportunity. But Souffle and Me makes for a fun and reasonably-priced brunch destination where the decor and service are as adorable as the food.
This review took place in August 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.