Song Pochana has been around for more than 37 years in this neighborhood, with the restaurant’s popularity seeing the original small shophouse expand into the pretty large dining space you find today. (And they’ve also now opened a more modern second branch in Kalaprapruk Rd.) We think the reason they’ve remained so popular for so long is not just down to the efficient service and the strong flavors of their food, but also due to their emphasis on fresh core ingredients—they raise all variety of fish in the back of the restaurant. Take their poo ob woonsen (steamed crab with vermicelli, B800), which justifies the hefty price tag by being huge, with big meaty claws and succulent meat that isn’t overpowered by the accompanying mix of Chinese herbs. A simple dish like the stir-fried pak puay leng (Asian spinach with garlic, B120) is good enough to have us coming back for more. Perfectly executed in true Chinese style, they manage the difficult act of retaining both the sweetness and the crunch of the perfectly cooked vegetables. We also love the plump freshness of the steamed seabass (B400), which is served in a hot pot with an aromatic and wonderfully peppery broth made with soy sauce. Even appetizers like the hoy jor (crab cake, B100) are a good bet: though a tiny bit dry, it really retains the texture of the crabmeat, unlike many other places, and avoids being too greasy and heavy. With such a big menu it’s perhaps not surprising that everything doesn’t reach such lofty standards. The au suan (panfried oyster omelet, B200), for example, is merely OK: the flour doesn’t exactly overpower the oysters, but we still need a little more flavor. Despite its slightly faded interior and dated ambience (all classic round tables and low ceilings) we feel that Song is one of the best of its kind and definitely worth the cross-river trip for a visit. Good quality and delicious authentic dishes at affordable prices mean it really ticks all the right boxes. No corkage charge.