After opening at the start of 2015, Smokin’ Pug didn’t take long to catch the attention of Bangkok’s craft-beer-swilling, industrial-Americana devotees. Even now, on a Tuesday night, we can spot the odd face from Made by Legacy and craft mixology consultants amid the crowd of wizened American expats and affluent-looking office types.

We’re glad, because these people would do well to take a note out of Smokin’ Pug’s cocktail menu, all of which is under B300 without any tax or service added—and as far as taste goes, we don’t see where the compromise is. The whiskey sour (B275) is made with Wild Turkey Kentucky bourbon, poured generously, while Dana’s Choice (B270) mixes Maker’s Mark with fresh ginger and ginger ale. Both taste delicious and match well with the smoky barbecue food.

A full-rack of baby back ribs will set you back B825 (half-rack B575), and believe them when they tell you it’s “enough for two.” The meat is tender without being too fatty, and glides from the bone with a little lubrication from a sweet and smoky, house-made barbecue sauce.

The pulled-pork chili (B365) is equally amazing, and like the ribs comes served with a hefty and delicious chunk of cornbread. The same meat used in the pulled-pork sandwich (B350) doesn’t quite match the tenderness of the ribs, but it’s not bad. Mix in plenty of sauce (of the three options, we recommend sticking to the Kansas City), ’slaw and a good dollop of smoky beans and you’ve got a tasty package, even if the bun is below the standard of this city’s finest.

But there are issues. The macaroni and cheese is a monotonous stodge with little flavor once you’ve skinned the gratin off the top, while our banana cream pie dessert (B295) tastes like someone forgot to add any sugar. None of this would ever stop us going back, however. Compared to neighboring American barbecue places like Roadhouse, Smokin’ Pug is in a different league—tastier, similarly priced and with infinitely more charm. 

Special mention has to go to the two owners who, without a spare seat in the house, give each table their personal attention, pour cocktails themselves and ensure dishes fly from the kitchen. For this and many other reasons—the slide-guitar soundtrack, the huge portions, the free-flow homemade potato chips—eating at Smokin’ Pug is a joy.