What this sushi restaurant gives in portion vs price, it takes away completely in atmosphere.
Lurking behind an uninviting shop-front in the after-work Japanese party streets connecting Silom Soi 6 with Surawong Road, Shinsoko Sushi pulls in customers thanks to deals that see prices slashed by 35-60 percent on certain items when you pay with cash. That means duos of salmon sushi for as little as B90 (down from B180), hamachi at B162 (down from B270), or an 18-piece (nine different fish) sashimi set for B2,535 (down from B3,900).
Its other strength is portion sizes. The sushi here is prepared to the limits of what you can fit in your mouth, with the ratio of fish to rice falling heavily on the side of fish. The Ume Sushi set (B900) features great slabs of maguro, hamachi, kampachi, hotate, salmon and surf clam spilling over the sides of their rice bases, along with an equally hefty omelet and six pieces of salmon maki. Barring the pallid salmon, it all tastes happy and fresh, too. For our money, the rice could do with a little more crunch and a splash more vinegar, though it’s not bad for what you pay.
But what Shinsoko gives in portion vs price, it takes away completely in atmosphere. The blend of fake sakura blossom, laminate and bad Euro-pop fails to be either energetic and fun or hushed and reverential. No matter how desperate you are for sushi, it’s hard to see why anyone would choose to eat amid these conversation-sucking surroundings when the same neighborhood is blessed with such vibrant spots as Katsu Shin and Daimasu.
From our experience, you really don’t want to stray from the sushi, either. Shinsoko’s teppanyaki Australian beef (B680) is overcooked, powdery and very oily, while the mentusyu dip for the tempura is as flavorless as their complimentary green tea—and theirs is tempura that really needs some added flavor.
If all you’re after is to walk away from a sushi dinner feeling full for under B1,000, then Shinsoku has you covered. But if you’re after a dinner with any kind of soul, you best look elsewhere. Corkage B300
This review took place in June 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.
|Shinsoko Sushi, Soi Anuman Rajdhon, Surawong Rd., Bangkok, Thailand
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