Amid the chaotic Nana neighborhood, there’s a good chance you’ll miss Shater—a Persian diner tucked behind a little coffee joint. Despite appearances, the fact that it has stood its ground for 18 years signals it mustn’t be such a well-kept secret after all.

 

Last time we were here the place was full—all Middle-Easterners. The decor is nothing to write home about, forgoing the pomp of some other Persian restaurants with its plain faux-stone walls, faded brick columns, glass-covered tables and leather cushioned seats—arguably very similar to any other Soi Nana Middle Eastern diner.

 

The service, however, is standout. Attentive staff will guide you through the menu (all listed in Persian) and give their recommendations, while the wait for food is routinely minimal.

 

The tender and flavorful braised lamb shank (B400) comes in a tasty, thick and aromatic sauce that exudes turmeric, saffron and other spices begging to be mopped up with a big plate of steamy saffron rice with an eggy and dense side of savory saffron cake.

 

What really has us hooked is the lusciously thick tahina (B120). Not to be confused with the sesame seed paste tahini, tahina adds lemon juice and garlic to the mix, resulting in something that tastes like a blend of yogurt and hummus. On the downside, Shater doesn’t serve the best hummus (B120) in Bangkok—some extra garlic and salt would give it the kick it needs. Nevertheless, the crisp yet soft naan makes a delicious companion.

 

We also enjoy Shater’s mixed kebabs (B400)—sticks of minced beef (well-seasoned but a little chewy), grilled chicken (aromatic and soft) and lamb (perfectly grilled and tender)—though they don’t quite have the wow-factor. Big thanks goes to the citrusy and light shirazi, a refreshing cucumber and tomato salad (B120) that offsets the food coma.

 

In an area that’s saturated by hit-or-miss Middle Eastern cuisine, this unassuming spot is a solid bet. Plus, it opens till 4am—good to know for next time you suffer those late-night hunger pangs. No corkage charge