A wave of openings in 2016 and 2017 has made the Charoenkrung neighborhood a real foodie favorite. Outlaw is part of that movement, and regularly fills its tiny interior at the bottom of a shop-house with a mix of expats and Thais who come for the comforting Western staples as much as the relaxed vibe.

The exposed brick walls lined with interesting photographs and creative decor using repurposed window frames and wooden boxes give hints of French chef-owner Romain Guiot’s artistic background. His culinary talents are on full display through a tiny open kitchen, with just a small wooden bar between it and the diners. Like the decor, Guiot’s personality makes a mark on the dining experience during the frequent moments he steps out of the kitchen to charm guests, many of whom know him on a first-name basis, judging by our last visit.

The menu focuses on simple, comforting dishes using quality, mostly imported ingredients. The selections can feel a bit scanty, however. There are only three appetizers, all featuring some rendition of tomatoes on toast. That’s not to say the mini bruschetta (B180) doesn’t hit the mark with freshly diced tomato and beetroot over crunchy slices of toasted baguette and a dash of balsamic vinaigrette.

The decent selection of tartines (open-faced sandwiches, from B250), cold-cut and cheese platters (from B695) and salads (from B290) make up for the lackluster starters. With that said, the last time we ordered the goat cheese salad (B320), we couldn’t taste any honey-mustard dressing. The dish felt more like a heap of expensive cheese on a bed of uninspiring greens and veg. The creamy carbonara with yellow duck egg topping (B360) is better, thanks to its thick slices of tender pork, though we prefer our pasta a little more al dente.

The menu gets some oomph from a range of hearty meats, such as wagyu steak (B1,300/300g), lamb chops (B690) and roasted duck breast with honey and thyme (B750), which is succulent and well-seasoned alongside creamy truffle mashed potatoes and a healthy dose of grilled garden vegetables.

We wouldn’t travel across Bangkok solely to visit Outlaw, but its respectable selection of German, Italian and Thai craft beers (from B220), well-prepared food and eclectic, artsy vibe make it a great lift-off point for nights in Charoenkrung. Corkage B695

This review took place in August 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.