To give them credit, O’s Ros does try to offer a fresh take on Thai dishes, even if the results aren’t quite as hoped for. The décor doesn’t hint at anything daring: located in an airy house with a very high ceiling, the furnishing is simple. The menu is thick, though, with some 200 dishes, mostly Thai but also some pastas and salad (done Thai-style). Fresh combinations like pla too (mackerel) and lime, and noodles and lemongrass are certainly intriguing, while also being resolutely Thai. While we appreciate their effort to try something new, some of their recommended dishes simply don’t meet our flavor expectations. Take the disappointing pla too manao (mackerel with spicy sauce, B110), which on our last visit didn’t taste fresh, and had a faint fishy aroma. It was also overcooked, the texture quite dry, and the accompanying sauce way too sour. Meanwhile, the pla krapong tom yam hang (deep fried sea bass topped with tom yam paste, B600) is overly acidic. The dish would be much more tolerable if they toned down the sourness because the fish is nicely deep-fried with a lovely texture. The kua pa gung (stir-fried shrimp with chili and herbs, B120) is better, even if its aroma is more alluring than its actual taste—which emphasizes spice above all else. The hor mok talay (steamed fishcake with seafood, B150), though, is very enjoyable, the seafood fresh and the delicate hor mok bursting with flavors. We also love the gang kua hed tob (spicy curry with earth star mushroom, B120)—totally scrumptious. The rich, flavorful curry has that perfect savory aspect and the dish proves to be the real star of the place. We admire what O’s Ros is doing—putting subtle twists on classic Thai dishes while staying loyal to the local palate. It’s also very affordable. But while several dishes are delicious, others simply need a much better balance of flavors. Corkage B200 for liquors and B100 for wine.
|O’s Ros, 317/9 Ratchaseema Rd., Bangkok, Thailand
|Rattanakosin (Old Town)
|B - BB
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