Norang Narang is a Korean hideaway amid the towering office buildings of Sathorn, serving up affordable spreads made for sharing in a quirky setting. Upon entering the box-like venue, you’re greeted by the sounds of sizzling meats and boisterous Korean dialogue—a good sign if ever there was one!

The energetic owner, a Korean native, casts his watchful eye over the place as his attentive staff busy themselves seating newcomers, clearing tables and ferrying hot-stone grills to and fro. Atypical decorations like fairy lights, framed cartoon characters and stuffed dolls lend the place a warmth and playfulness not always associated with traditional Korean restaurants.

The menu offers variety, if not an exhaustive list of Korean dishes, with familiar items like dolsot bibimbap (B199), kimchi soup (B199) and sweet and spicy fried chicken (B299) catching the eye. The latter goes great with a few shots of Chamisul soju (B250/bottle) or its sweeter, peachy version, Chum-churum (B300).

The flavorful bulgogi beef (B599) arrives sizzling on a hot stone with sapid ssamjang (spicy dipping sauce) and a basket of fresh green leaves. We also recommend ordering a couple rounds of the succulent kimchi dumplings (B149)—best dipped in soy sauce and eaten along with pickled radish.

Other dishes don’t quite hit these lofty heights, due to flavors that are either a little too mild or unbalanced. The jajang tteokpokki (B179) is a non-spicy version of stir-fried rice cake that uses black bean paste as the base for its sauce. However, we can’t help but hope for something with more kick to go with the chewy rice cake. On the other hand, the kimchi jjigae (B199), which comes packed with vegetables and soft tofu, is just too tangy to be totally comforting.

The owner says he makes all his own vegetable side dishes, and these indeed are a highlight of the meal. Compared to top casual Korean spots like, say, Banjoo and Ko Kung, Norang Narang perhaps falls short of nailing consistently rewarding flavors, but thanks to its fun, casual setup and caring service it’s a place where you really feel welcomed. This far from Sukhumvit, that’s probably the best you can hope for.