This all-American-via-China diner opened in Bangkok to much fanfare, boasting exclusively USDA-certified Angus beef steaks and burgers carrying accolades like “best in Shanghai” from more than one major publication. Evidently, this is no ordinary chain.
While the restaurant’s matter-of-fact name, sleek metropolitan decor and menu chockfull of cocktails referencing Soho and Central Park rather bludgeon home the New York theme, the food mostly delivers big-time, too. And we mean big. In this town, we’re not often given reason to complain about portions being too large, but that’s (almost) the case with the likes of the signature burger, the Manhattan Monster (B490). There’s little chance of wrapping your jaw around this hulking mass of bacon, cheddar, fried egg and onion rings atop a perfectly rounded, 220g ground-beef patty without making a scene. The lightly seasoned patty, though, is grilled with juicy precision (you can see chef Naalinlat Kollman and co. at work in the semi-open kitchen). We especially enjoy the slathering of chili con carne, while the bun—supposedly made in-house daily—and massive side of fries are also winners.
The steaks, which start at B1,250 and go up to B3,250 for a 500g Chateaubriand, are rather less showy and we’re thankful for that. Last visit we ordered the 350g ribeye (B1,550) medium rare and weren’t disappointed by the rich, marbled goodness and delicious charring. The meat’s flavorsome enough to not really need sauce, but there are five varieties available. (Aside: The rich, sweet house steak sauce puts the pre-made ketchup and onion ring [B160] dipping sauce to shame.)
As for dessert, the apple pie (B250) is as wholesome as they come, a sweet, dense apple filling encased in deliciously flaky crust—we only wish it had been served piping hot rather than lukewarm. While there are chicken and shrimp burger options—and the mild Waldorf salad (B290) comes with nice and smoky, albeit small, chunks of grilled chicken—don’t kid yourself; the restaurant’s really catering to beef lovers with a big appetite. New York Style’s prices aren’t cheap but also aren’t out of the ballpark for the size and quality. This is red meat worth braving Sukhumvit Soi 22’s garish array of street meat for.
This review took place in May 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.