Moulin actually has a presentation video on Youtube, one where we’re told to expect a New York designer meets Japanese chef experience that will be akin to having Sex and the City-style gossip with a geisha in a bar sat by the Moulin Rouge, in Paris. The menu makes equally bold promises with dishes like “over the rainbow scrumptious cream of broccoli, lovely and light” (B180). The reality of Moulin, is that, despite the 6/F view of Phaya Thai and insanely high ceilings, you’re in an open space, in a mall, so the glamor levels can’t even match those of a basic Greyhound café. As for the food, it’s neither “scrumptious” nor “lovely.” In fact, much of it borders on the inedible. The “haute couture smoked duck rocket salad splashed in Italian dressing” (B260) is dripping in so much vinegar, your mouth will feel numb after a few bites. Pasta dishes are beyond overcooked, such as in the penne pesto with “grilled shrimps,” a mushy B300 dish submerged in oil that comes with just two small shrimps. One of our more shocking finds was in the “sensational pan-fried blackened seabass splashed in spicy Mediterranean sauce with grilled parmigiano veggies” (B380): a stack of raw, but lukewarm, vegetables with a topping of molten processed cheese. Service, too, is a huge letdown. With so few customers, the entire staff still manages to disappear into the kitchen, leaving you waiting long minutes to get any attention. And despite all the promises of Parisian sophistication, dishes appear in no particular order, Thai-style. You could applaud Moulin’s attempt at originality but the menu is actually following every tired trend in the book once you get past the fancy descriptions: fish & chips, spaghetti mentaiko, and cheesecake. With boring recipes, terrible execution and a fussy décor that fails to conjure up any of the ideas that drive its concept, this place is simply a failure on every front.
|Address:||Moulin, 3/F, No. 88, Sukhumvit Soi Between Sois 5 and 9, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Opening hours:||daily 11am-10pm|
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