Misokatsu Yabaton is another venerable Japanese franchise (founded 1947) that has spawned a branch in Bangkok. Its hometown, Nagoya, is famous for misokatsu, a pork cutlet drenched in thick miso sauce. Even back home, Yabaton’s is a classic. Tucked down a soi, the Bangkok venue’s barebones decor and lack of options beyond its star dish make it a very niche destination, though.

 

You’re really meant to order a katsu, but they do have similarly breaded shrimp, croquettes and even asparagus. Of the half-dozen katsu options, the classics would have to be the teppan misokatsu (pork loin cutlet served on a hot plate, B400 for a la carte or B480 for a set with refillable rice, sliced cabbage, pickled turnip and soup) and the waraji misokatsu, explained on the menu as jumbo pork loin cutlet, and served on a normal plate (B390 or B470 with the set).

 

Though they are both made from the same cut of pork, the teppan cutlet served atop a bed of sliced cabbage on a sizzling hot plate is thicker, with a superior texture, not to mention a pleasantly smoky aroma from the burnt miso sauce poured onto the pan upon serving. The waraji version is good, too. The breaded pork is nicely deep-fried, resulting in a crispy and non-greasy crust. You can choose to have it with classic Worcestershire sauce, which is very tasty, or go half-half with the miso sauce, which is a bit too sweet for our taste. Either way, the trimmings are spot on. Japanese mustard, chili powder and chopped roasted peanuts are provided on the table and the refillable tonjiru soup, made with cabbage and carrot slices, is more flavorful than the miso soup you’re served at most places.

 

Like other tonkatsu restaurants, Misokatsu Yabaton also serves a curry option (B295), which is creamy and mellow but rather too mild for us. We’d also avoid the yakibuta (B180), rolled pork-belly with a chashulike look: very fat, not tender, tasting of little else other than soy sauce. Finally, the only dessert available is mango pudding (B85); eggy and buttery topped with concentrated syrup-like mango sauce, it’s not exactly a refreshing postkatsu palate cleanser. If you’re maintaining a bucket list of regional Japanese specialties, Yabaton does make a great katsu—particularly the teppan option. Whether you actually like the sweet, dense miso sauce accompaniment is a question of taste. No outside drinks allowed

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This review took place in May 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.