Singapore-hailing Man Fu Yuan doesn’t get the attention heaped on fellow dim sum imports Tim Ho Wan and Din Tai Fung.

While the high-end Cantonese restaurant in the hallowed halls of Rajpruek Golf Club welcomes no shortage of VIP visitors, a recent weekend visit to this casual spin-off, meant to take the brand to the EmQuartier-dwelling masses, found the place practically empty. To be fair, it wasn’t alone on this count. Still, Man Fu Yuan Kitchen deserves more love.

Hidden up in the eaves of the mall’s topsy-turvy Helix Quartier dining zone, the restaurant approximates its main branch’s exclusive feel through tufted booths, floral-patterned chairs and decorative ceramics. It’s too bad the plinking classical mood music is no match for the mall’s all-invasive, club soundtrack, because in all other areas Man Fu Yuan Kitchen exudes a calmness that’s far removed from the din of, say, Tim Ho Wan.

The kitchen is a notch above, too, excelling in flavors and texture. The soy sauce-laden chee cheong fun with crispy shrimp (B195/6 pieces) is soft, springy rice-noodle exterior, crunchy center. Like all the dishes we tried, there’s no skimping on the good stuff. Each roll is stuffed with a big, bouncy shrimp, and you can taste the freshness. Just as plump and satisfying are the pork and shrimp siew mai (B145/3 pieces), thin-skinned dumplings that all but dissolve in your mouth, topped off with XO sauce for a pungent kick.

We also love the generous char siu to dough ratio of the crunchy little deep-fried pork buns (B100/3 pieces), though the intensely sweet honey glaze is a sticking point. The tea-smoked duck (starting at B350/portion) also has its flaws, with skin that’s aromatic, but not particularly crisp, but the smoky, fatty meat is a definite point in its favor.

Balance out all that doughiness with a hefty plate of crisp stir-fried Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce (B220) and then cleanse your palate with the surprisingly luscious mango sago dessert with pomelo (B130).

Complementing the food, the dutiful waitstaff who’ll refill your tea cup at the merest of sips (B180 for a pot of the brand’s own 5 Element Tea) lend Man Fu Yuan Kitchen a warmth you don’t always associate with dim sum restaurants.

This review took place in May 2018 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.