The buzz: Ma Maison is the new Thai restaurant at Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, a grand old estate in Nai Lert Park which opened to the public this year to celebrate its 100th anniversary.

The decor: Despite the heritage setting, Ma Maison goes down a very modern route. It’s not actually in the house itself, but sits in a glass pavilion in the middle of a lawn courtyard. Inside, herringbone parquet floors meet with smooth mid-century-style dining chairs and artfully chosen bric-a-brac from stuffed birds to butterfly display cases. It’s all quite on-trend (if you block out the intense purple and leopard print wingbacks over at the bar) while not detracting from the heritage building nearby.

The food and drinks: The simple dishes come from the aristocratic Bodiratnangkura family’s favorite home cooking. Comforting Thai staples like deep fried fish cakes (B180), massaman curry (B280), river prawns in red curry sauce (B1,200) and pad Thai (B350) are the kind of thing everyone wants to see on a menu, while you’ll also find a few more esoteric dishes. Their version of hor-mok (steamed fish curry pudding wrapped in banana leaf, B160) comes served in two wraps—one featuring the fish pudding and another with curry-paste steamed rice—while the mee nam Park Nai Lert (B240) sees crispy vermicelli soup with shredded pork and shrimp. A short list of Western dishes is also available, including stewed ox tongue with spaghetti (B680), roasted chicken with butter rice (B450) and lamb shank stew (B850). Do ask for the young coconut sorbet (B120) to cleanse your palate. Cocktails are priced at B350 while wine starts at B300 by the glass.

Why you should care: Finding a location for lunch as charming as Nai Lert Park is really hard in this city. At Ma Maison you have a kind of modern Thai, ladies-who-lunch atmosphere as well as tasty, comforting food.