The mastermind behind Chef Man serves up a modernized take on Chinese cuisine.
The buzz: The latest opening at Mahanakhon Cube is no less glamorous than its predecessors. Here, chef Man Wai Yin, the mastermind behind one of Bangkok’s top Chinese kitchens, Chef Man, collaborates with well-traveled French chef Marc Razurel (who’s spent time at the two-Michelin-starred Carre des Feuillants in Paris) to serve up a modernized take on Chinese cuisine.
The decor: With a capacity of only 35-40 people, Chef Man this isn’t. Plush, modern Chinese decor heightens the intimacy, with velvet-upholstered furniture adding color to the solemn-looking dark wood. While there are no partitions between tables, the high-back dining chairs make for plenty of privacy, especially at the tables for two beside the curved-glass, floor-to-ceiling windows. There’s also a private room for up to 10 people.
The food and drinks: M Krub offers a private dining experience where the food is plated up the French way, on individual plates and in courses. Not only is the presentation beautiful, the food is served on plates hand-painted by Chinese chef Liu Cheng prior to every serving. Tables must be reserved at least one day in advance, with prices starting from B2,800 for six courses to 8,000 for 10 courses at lunch, and B8,000-12,000 at dinner. Some dishes go beyond typical Chinese ingredients, as in the sauteed Pacific scallop on deep-fried, finely-sliced bread with mango mayonnaise and caviar, or medium-rare pan-grilled Kagoshima wagyu ribeye topped with mayonnaise-dijon mustard sauce. Others stick closer to home, such as the Chinese cabbage consomme, fried rice made with twelve assorted grains and the delectable chrysanthemum tofu in almond syrup, in which the chef showcases his knife skills by finely cutting the tofu into hair-like strips. (Note: they also serve shark’s fin.) Chef Razurel whips up French-style desserts, adding some Chinese flavors, like with the chocolate eclair with chrysanthemum sauce. Aside from tea, drinks include mocktails (B110), classic cocktails (B220), beers and a long list of white, red and sparkling wines (starting at B320 by the glass).
Why you should care: While we’ve seen attempts to serve elevated Thai cuisine in Western-style arrangements, that hasn’t really been the case with Chinese food. And there’s certainly no lack of class or artistry here. Natcha Sanguankiattichai
|Address:||M Krub, 2/F, Mahanakhon Cube, 96 Narathiwas Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||October, 2015|
|Opening hours:||daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-10pm|
|Nearest train||BTS Chong Nonsi|
|Reservation recommended, Parking available, Dress requirements|
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