Named after that most neon-lit Hong Kong district, this Silom institution is best known for its B429 all-you-can-eat dim sum buffet (11am-2pm daily), for which you’ll probably have to book ahead. That’s a decent deal for penny-pinchers, but you can’t really expect top quality for that price.

 

While inconsistent, Kowloon isn’t without appeal. They also serve dim sum for dinner (until 9pm), when all dishes come in at B100. The flurry of menus, with various conflicting “chef recommendations,” don’t exactly help the ordering process—not that there are too many surprises in store.

 

We recommend steering clear of the doughier options; with their meagre fillings, the barbecue pork buns are gummy and all but tasteless. Stick to the thinly-cased dumplings, which are a much safer bet, whether the shrimp, pork or superb chive filling. We also rate the steamed sponge cake with its airy texture and sweetness.

 

Mains span the whole gamut, from double-boiled soups and greasy fry-ups to Peking duck and shark fin, and the results tend to be competent rather than amazing. The stir-fried garoupa fillets with XO sauce (B280) and honey and chrysanthemum chicken (B240) won’t win any awards for delicacy, but do revel in a sort of sticky, one-dimensional charm. The latter lacks that caramelized crunch to make it truly satisfying, but we love that the former comes with big crispy chunks of Chinese bok choy to balance out the salty flavors.

 

With its vivid red faux bamboo and hanging lanterns, Kowloon looks a lot more impressive from the outside looking in through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Inside, though, the saturated red light doesn’t amount to any sort of mood. Like many Chinese restaurants, things can get pretty chaotic—and don’t expect too much attention from the staff. We’ve heard Kowloon praised as a cheaper, tastier alternative to Tim Ho Wan and the likes, but we’re not buying it. Cheaper; that’s about it. No corkage charge 

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This review took place in November 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.