The buzz: The new project from restaurateur Fred Meyer (Issaya Siamese Club, Namsaah Bottling Trust and Pizza Massilia) resides in a cutely-decorated shop-house in the rising Suan Phlu neighborhood and serves Japanese dishes with premium ingredients.
The decor: Every inch of this single shop-house is stylishly fitted out with European and Oriental touches. Red and floral wallpaper dominates the front of house, where a high ceiling ensures the space feels airy rather than cramped. Things are more intimate at the back of the room where the sushi bar sits. Antiques like French Empire brass chandeliers and candelabras complement the kitschy Japanese ceramic tableware. Upstairs there’s an even more colorful private room.
The food and drinks: Internationally-trained Japanese chef Goro Takatsu (Japan, Peru, Mexico, Spain) integrates modern cooking methods and presentation with traditional Japanese flavors. On top of premium sushi like scallops (B790) and uni (B960), appetizers include the Rosebeef (Black Angus with yuzu ponzu dressing, B390) and black cod miso gyoza with chili soy sauce (B410). Main dishes showcase even more of his creativity. The squid ink ramen with fresh Maine lobster and Japanese uni sauce (B1,500) is not to be missed, boasting a surprising yet satisfying pasta-like quality, as is the flavor-packed 60-day aged Tajima wagyu steak served with ponzu jelly (B1,750). Desserts are even cuter than the crockery, especially the moji with red bean mousse and strawberry jelly (B250). For drinks, there’s a selection of premium sakes like Dassai (from B1,900/720ml), Kizakara (B950/720ml) and Garanryu (from B1,550/720ml), as well as Japanese whiskey from both well-known distilleries like Nikka (B220) and artisanal producers like Eigashima (from B490). Can’t decide? Try the signature Hokkaido bellini (Nagono peach sake and Prosecco, B390).
Why you should care: The small joint pairs innovative food with well-considered decor. Kom-Ba-Wa dares to be different, a rare occurence when it comes to Japanese food in Bangkok.