Good spots by the Chao Phraya River can be hard to find, but Khinlom Chomsapan’s bagged a plum one right by the Rama 8 Bridge. Despite its simple décor—little more than dark wooden furniture under the sala—the place has long been famous for its ambiance. That’s the main explanation we can find for why its large open-air indoor and outdoor areas are often so crowded. Because if you flick through one of the really thick menus, you’ll find a range of classic Thai dishes that we really don’t think have the quality to match their lofty prices. The last time we visited, the somtam poo kai dong (spicy papaya salad with fermented crab, B600) was barely palatable, the papaya was extremely bitter and the crab tasted a little old. The khao pad poo (fried rice with crabmeat, B120 for small) was another sorry affair, served cold and so late that we’d forgotten that we’d ordered it. A little more seasoning and crabmeat might have lightened up this dull dish. The staff often recommend the gang som pae sa (soup with tamarind paste, water mimosa and snakehead fish, B390) but it isn’t worthy of any high praise, being way too sour and the water mimosa chewy. Thankfully, the deep-fried dishes are a noticeable step up in flavor. The pla krapong tod nampla (deep-fried seabass in fish sauce, B320) has a pleasing taste: even if the fish is a little dry and overcooked, the saucy side is good enough to eat alone with rice. What’s more, the nam see krong moo (deep-fried fermented spare ribs, B150) is surprisingly delicious, with a nice balance to the sour taste and an overall lack of grease. But, really, Khinlom Chomsapan is another of those restaurants where disappointing food is compounded by poor service. And yes, there’s a service charge, which is difficult to accept when waiters bark orders from one another across the room. Sure, it’s a nice place by the river, but that’s about it. Corkage B200