A trip to Lumphini is never complete without a stop-off at this famous shop-house somtam joint. And though the papaya salad’s excellent, the real reason for the crowd’s is the gait tod Polo—fried chicken littered in shards of deep-fried chicken, and so tasty that it’s made this little soi off Wireless Road a household name. Good job the laab, tod man and nom tok are pretty tasty, too.