Out with Freebird, in with Thai premiership footballers.
The buzz: Take defunct modern bistro Freebird, put it in the hands of a pair of Bangkok United star players, revamp the menu with a French-leaning list of grilled proteins, and you've got Phrom Phong's latest place to be seen: Ivy 47.
The decor: Maybe it's the glamorous clientele, or maybe it's the crisp white linens, wing-back chairs and dripping mood lighting, but this place feels like money. Freebird's more casual touches are gone—the graffiti mural, the puffy chandeliers—replaced with a monochrome aesthetic, built around the same old open kitchen. Walk outside to the backyard and you'll find a big staircase leading up to a glamorous yet downbeat bar.
The food: Think Cocotte but more upscale. Head chef Francois Lecouvez (formerly of Alliance Française's on-site restaurant, Cafe 1912) and his menu are French, though Asian and Italian flavors creep in. The concise menu manages to hit all bases, from fresh, zingy starters like the Scottish salmon tartare with yuzu ponzu and truffle dressing, sweet soya and apple jelly, punchy wasabi mayo and creamy guacamole (B450), and plump Hokkaido scallops with sunchoke and chorizo foam (B650), to seafood like the glazed Maine lobster in ginger and port wine jus (B1,300) and meats like the succulent 270-day grain-fed Australian Angus rib eye (B1,200/250g). To finish, the Melon Bergamot (B350)—Japanese green melon, elderflower, thin sheets of bergamot meringue and tangy honey Greek yogurt ice cream—is sweet and refreshing.
The drinks: Curated by Sommelier Jordan Cortes Alvares, formerly of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, the manageable but diverse wine list charts Qba Trocken, Weingut Wittmann Riesling (B2,300), La Grange de Peres Rouge 2014 (B8,900), a number of organic and biodynamic bottles and a handful of options by the glass (from B320). Be sure to head upstairs after your meal, where a sleek yet funky bar awaits. Here, energetic Boston-hailing bartender Aaron Feder (formerly of Ounce Taipei) presides over an upbeat playlist and a cocktail menu designed by Vogue Lounge's Francesco Moretti (sample drink: Lost in Thailand—Matusalem 15-yo rum, coconut, galangal, kaffir lime, lemongrass, passion fruit, pineapple, all spice and Perrier; B350). We say forget the menu and leave it in Aaron’s capable hands. They also have their own menu of fancy snacks like oysters (B350/three) and cold cuts (B450).
The crowd: Don’t be alarmed if you encounter a dressy crowd who look like models. Of the two owners, one (Sam Nordine) used to be a pro soccer player, and the other (Tristan Do) still plays for Bangkok United. This looks set to become a BKK WAG hangout.
|Ivy 47, 28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, Bangkok, Thailand
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