A bold claim: Bangkok's first zero-waste, urban farm dining experience.
This modern two-story wood house with backyard views is the brainchild of two Indian chefs, Deepanker Khosla and Tarun Bhatia, who are both zealots for the farm-to-table and zero-waste approach. Equal parts urban farm and modern fine-dining restaurant, they grow a vast array of edible greens onsite which feature throughout their nine- and 13-course tasting dinners. The humble tomato is elevated in high-wire dishes like the Tomato Mist with whey, Indian barrage, blueberry and celery, though meat-lovers will take comfort in the wagyu short ribs, assisted by glazed eel, smoked eggplant, black garlic, raw mushrooms and buckwheat foam.
The buzz: Haoma is equal parts urban farm and modern fine- dining restaurant. They grow 37 different edible greens for use in the kitchen, hope to turn carbon negative by 2019 and produce high-wire dishes of simple elegance.
The decor: You’ll get a short tour before the professional staff escort you to the modern house with backyard views. Every detail is a reference to the green mission of the restaurant, from the faint chime of recycled water coursing into the fish tanks, to the abundance of natural light, to furniture fashioned to emphasize the wood grain, to the earthy brick tones of the outdoor tables set amid the kitchen garden. Although the decor is very polished, the vibe is nonetheless down to earth, and pets are welcome outdoors.
The food: The kitchen is in the hands of executive chef and proprietor Deepanker “DK” Khosla ( formerly Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology) and sous chef Tarun Bhatia, winner of Southeast Asia’s San Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 award. Every dish is immaculately plated. The flavors, similarly, accentuate the taste of the ingredients rather than covering them in sauces. Try Stick to the Roots (B370), which evokes a vegetable patch with delicate beetroot puree "roots," 90-day-heated black garlic "dirt" and heirloom carrots. Although the menu emphasizes vegetables, this is not a vegetarian restaurant, as evidenced in the Hungarian Gulash (B850) made with Thai-wagyu beef (more on what that means here: goo.gl/3TG1xq) accompanied by pickled cucumber and pearl onions. Desserts include a Belgian chocolate Black Forest mousse that’s complemented with a tangy roselle gel and roselle sorbet (B350).
The drinks: Mitchell Kai Lum, a Bacardi brand ambassador, has incorporated Haoma’s no-vegetable-left-behind mentality into the cocktails. Fruit peel and seeds are here repurposed into the zesty, spicy Bell Pepper (B350), a Bloody Mary-like concoction of whiskey and bell pepper with pink peppercorn. The gin-based Kale (B350) is smashed avocado and apple topped off with parmesan.
Why we’d come back: The novelty of Haoma’s bold, urban farm and zero-waste dining is enough to warrant a return trip, but we’d also come for the vibrancy and beautiful plating of the veg-forward dishes. Plus, it’s the only fine-dining venue in Bangkok that allows pets.
|Address:||Haoma, 231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Price Range:||BBBB - BBBBB|
|Open since:||November, 2017|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sun 5-10:30pm; Sat 5-10:30pm; Sun 5-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-1:30pm|
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