Down a quiet soi off Sukhumvit, this family-run restaurant dishes out pleasantly light khao soi, refreshing pomelo salads, and home-style kua kae (stir-fried vegetables with chicken) in a Lanna setting: potted orchids, hanging tung (northern flags), bright pink walls, darkwood furniture. With its friendly prices, this chilled-out spot is the perfect place to escape the city madness.
There are still quite a few aging Thai restaurants hidden away on the quieter side-streets of odd-numbered Sukhumvit that make lovely, simple food that you and your family can enjoy. One of these is Gedhawa, though you could argue that its Lanna-style dark wood furniture, hanging tung (fabrics) and other collectibles are more ageless than aging. In fact, at first glance it resembles a furniture shop, a look which could have been a disaster in the hands of less-skilled decorators, but one that the owners tastefully pull off. With only 10 or so tables, plus a couple more outside for smokers and kids who can’t sit still, dining at Gedhawa is a very warm and homey experience. Completing the picture is the kind-hearted aunt-like woman who runs the dining room and a shy waitress in her school uniform. The food is Thai with an emphasis seemingly on Northern dishes, including khao soi (Northern-style noodles in curry with chicken, B85), which here is quite light but pleasant enough when you add in some of their fresh condiments. On the kanom jeen side, their kanom jeen nam ngiew (rice vermicelli in Northern-style soup, B75) might not come with the lovely dok ngiew (dried red cotton tree flowers) in it but the overall taste isn’t bad. We just think that it could be even better with a more generous serving of paste to bring out a stronger, tastier flavor. The kua kae (stir-fried vegetables with chicken, B120), however, is the real deal, tasting like your grandma’s cooking (if she’s Northern, admittedly)—highly aromatic and totally scrumptious. A few other dishes are almost as enjoyable, like the stir-fried eggplant with salted soya bean sauce and sweet basil (B120). The sauce has a very pleasant tang and is not overly salty, going great with rice. On the whole, Gedhawa is a rewarding option in the far-too-limited field of Northern cuisine in Bangkok. It’s unfussy and very cheap, especially considering the lovely flavors on offer. No corkage charge.
|Gedhawa, Taweewan Place, 78/2 Sukhumvit Soi 33, Bangkok, Thailand
|Mon-Sat 10am-1pm, 4-9pm
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