Instead of monopolizing that entire, gorgeous rooftop space with just one restaurant, the folks at Fuzio now have a second eatery, one of the first to serve what it calls New American cuisine, a big trend in foodie cities in America. In a high ceilinged, Boardwalk Empire-esque vintage setting, they do meat-heavy dishes done simple, like lamb skewers, enormous burgers and some hearty salads.
The Garret is a part of a wider movement, a new wave of gastro pubs currently sweeping the city, and there is certainly much to admire about this venue. The décor is a wonderful blend of casual sophistication, thanks to the lounge-y, prohibition-chic furniture and stylish star-gazing out on the rooftop terrace. Even the simple act of getting there through the gloomy car park and via the tiny lift adds to the well-kept secret vibe. The food falls firmly into the comforting camp with a list of stateside-influenced choices that will evoke West coast American homecooking. Yet, there’s plenty here to keep you interested, like the artfully-presented foie in a jar, served in a cute jar with grape jelly and raspberry brioche—it’s just a shame the pate is a little too light. The delicious spicy meatballs pack more of a kick while the baked Japanese oysters are plump, sizeable and make for wonderfully gooey mouthfuls thanks to the Hollandaise sauce. We also really like the option to try a trio of starters, which is also a possibility with the desserts (dessert platter). We heartily recommend it, if only so you can sample more of their delightful interpretations of old classics, like the light and fruity strawberry soufflé or the simple but satisfyingly sour steamed lemon custard. Unfortunately, mains are the weak link. On our last visit, the crab claw thermidor was a disaster, containing a mere two and half tiny claws and a heap of soggy spinach, while the greasy batter in the Garret fish and chips almost ruined a nice piece of fish. A shame, but not the end of the world, because there’s a lot better on the menu, like the lamb skewers or the long, long list of burgers, to excuse these misfires. Plus, portions are extremely generous, service is smart and efficient and there’s a great drinks list, featuring plenty of affordable wines. Oh and there’s that wonderful atmosphere that means we’ll definitely go back, especially for their sinful desserts.
|The Garret, Room Rooftop, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, Bangkok, Thailand
|BBB - BBBB
|daily 10:30am-1:30pm, 5-11pm
|Reservation recommended, Parking available
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