The buzz: Milan-born Antonio Marelli, of the now-defunct La Villa on Thonglor Soi 9, is behind this new restaurant themed after the iconic shopping arcade in central Milan, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
The decor: Much has been done to make the deep Mille Malle space that used to be Let Them Eat Cake evoke the mid-19th-century Milanese building from which it takes inspiration. This extends to one wall being taken up by a monitor disguised as a window that projects a view from the mall. Other ornate touches include arched window frames and an abundance of stucco-like plaster casts. Out front sits an alfresco dining area.
The food and drinks: Though the menu does include some Milanese specialties like the ossobuco con risotto (Milan-style veal shank with saffron risotto, B620), chef Armando Bonadonna draws influence from all over Italy. Simple staples like pasta and risotto start at B280, while Italian pizza is sold by the slice starting at B180. Some of the highlights include codfish with black olive, tomato concasse, tarragon and saffron sauce (B610), fresh lobster and burrata salad with Sicilian orange and beetroot (B690), and the rack of lamb crusted with pistachio, mustard, sichuan pepper in a red wine glaze (B850). Desserts include classics like tiramisu (B200), Sicilian cassata (B200), profiteroles with chocolate ganache (B220), chocolate fondant (B220) and creme brulee (B180). The restaurant carries more than 50 Italian wines (starting at B200 by the glass) from Abruzzo, Tuscany, Sicily, Umbria, Piemonte, Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Alto Adige. It also opens for afternoon tea during weekdays (3-5pm), with tea (starting at B100/pot) served alongside desserts from the dinner menu.
Why you should care: The restaurant not only belongs to an Italian owner, but is also led by an Italian chef, befitting the classical Italian decor.