Beyond-impossible plant-based “meat” may be all the rage right now but, as DAG reminds us, nothing comes close to the juicy satisfaction of the real thing. Run by the guys behind Rarb (Phra Athit Road’s former nose-to-tail Isaan specialist) and burger institution Escapade, this eccentric eatery brings communal-style dining to Charoenkrung’s Warehouse 30.

On a recent visit, our carnivorous cravings were activated by the tantalizing aroma of grilled meat wafting down the walkway from the restaurant’s black-metal-framed glass door. A masculine, industrial vibe pervades the spacious dining room, dominated by black walls, long dark marble tables and an exposed warehouse-style ceiling, all thinly veiled in smoke. Throw in the shelf full of Chalermpon “Van” Rohitratana’s fermentation experiments (frog guts, saba fish, ripe mangoes), a few bull skulls and a groovy playlist of luk thung and molam remixes, and you begin to understand the lighthearted yet rebellious spirit of DAG. 

 

Despite prior warnings about the service, on this occasion, the staff seemed more than happy to offer their recommendations from the weekly-changing menu as we made our order at the counter, and the dishes came out at lightning speed. From the local meat-filled line-up of burgers, skewers, rice bowls and Rarb-inspired secondary cuts, the deep-fried beef (B340) stands out; with its tender texture, savory-sweet marinade, zingy tamarind-based chili sauce and sprinkle of crispy fried garlic, you’re reminded of why this is such a great starter and might begin mulling over a second helping. But save space for the beautifully diced, melt-in-your-mouth northeastern spicy pork liver (B160), which brims with toasted rice, herbs and the right amount of lime juice. 

It gets better: with its umami flavor and succulent medium-rare texture, the drool-inducing, double lamb burger with truffle and cheddar cheese (B360) is the kind of dish that triggers all the little primate sensors in your brain and makes you weak at the knees. So is the grilled ox tongue rice bowl (B440), topped with an exquisitely runny onsen egg.

Intense meaty flavors call for plenty of craft beer to wash it all down. Unfortunately, here, you’re stuck with just one option in Whale Pale Ale (B240), though the potent New Game Fashion (B350)—a riff off the classic old fashioned with chocolate bitters—and the super-refreshing, gin-based Lemon Thyme Tonic (B350) act as recompense. 

With chef Van’s primal approach to cooking and painstaking DIY techniques, DAG is sure as hell adventurous, but it’s these unpretentious dishes combined with the familiarity of nostalgic Thai flavors that guarantees repeat visits.