A communal dining experience that switches things up.
This new venture from the Rarb guys (who run Rattanakosin’s nose-to-tail Isaan specialist as well as burger joint Escapade) takes over the big open kitchen at Charoenkrung design complex Warehouse 30.
Here, guests sit around one long communal table to feast on a menu of local ingredients that changes every 1-2 weeks.
Don’t call it authentic Thai, although the flavors of dishes like a yam pla slid (snake skin fish spicy salad, B240) and ped pa lo (five spices duck, B140) served like duck confit with kombucha dipping sauce are unmistakably from the kingdom.
On a recent visit, our carnivorous cravings were activated by the tantalizing aroma of grilled meat wafting down the walkway from the restaurant’s black-metal-framed glass door. A masculine, industrial vibe pervades the spacious dining room, dominated by black walls, long dark marble tables and an exposed warehouse-style ceiling, all thinly veiled in smoke. Throw in the shelf full of Chalermpon “Van” Rohitratana’s fermentation experiments (frog guts, saba fish, ripe mangoes), a few bull skulls and a groovy playlist of luk thung and molam remixes, and you begin to understand the lighthearted yet rebellious spirit of DAG.
It gets better: with its umami flavor and succulent medium-rare texture, the drool-inducing, double lamb burger with truffle and cheddar cheese (B360) is the kind of dish that triggers all the little primate sensors in your brain and makes you weak at the knees. So is the grilled ox tongue rice bowl (B440), topped with an exquisitely runny onsen egg.
Intense meaty flavors call for plenty of craft beer to wash it all down. Unfortunately, here, you’re stuck with just one option in Whale Pale Ale (B240), though the potent New Game Fashion (B350)—a riff off the classic old fashioned with chocolate bitters—and the super-refreshing, gin-based Lemon Thyme Tonic (B350) act as recompense.
With chef Van’s primal approach to cooking and painstaking DIY techniques, DAG is sure as hell adventurous, but it’s these unpretentious dishes combined with the familiarity of nostalgic Thai flavors that guarantees repeat visits.