The buzz: Following the departure of chef Luca Cassini to Shangri-La’s Volti (formerly Angelini), Mandarin Oriental has revamped Ciao, its stylish Italian riverside restaurant, to offer casual, classic Italian fare devised by one of the biggest chefs in town.

 

The decor: The flashy red and black color scheme has been replaced with a mild industrial look thanks to tables and chairs outlined in iron frames. The new decor has a more casual vibe than the hotel’s other dress-up establishments (just remember “no shorts” and you’ll be fine), with colorful, Mediterranean-style tiles subtly dashed about. 

 

The food: Mandarin Oriental’s legendary chef Norbert Kostner takes care of the new Italian menu here. Though he comes from the Northern part of Italy, his food spans much further than that, covering all the Italian essentials while maintaining a traditional approach to cooking. Staple appetizers like burrata (B430) come accompanied by pan-wilted cherry tomatoes, needle beans and herb pesto, while his own take on fish carpaccio results in refreshingly marinated raw salmon and white sea bass with herbs, Taggia olives, capers and pickled lemon (B390). Of the various house-made pastas, we especially like the pappardelle with tender Ferrara-style spare rib stew (B390) and the black ink fettuccine with sauteed cuttlefish, broccoletti, cherry tomatoes and oregano (B400). There’s also wood-fired pizza at B320-490. Mains include veal shank stew with gremolata and saffron risotto (B790) and grilled beef sirloin with arugula and roast plum tomato (B1,100). Don't skip Ciao’s signature tiramisu (B290) for dessert. 

 

The drinks: Italian bottles take center stage in the thick wine menu, with varieties that go way beyond the Piedmontese and Tuscan staples. Prices start at B300 by the glass. The bar also rolls out classic Italian cocktails as well as tweaked versions at B390-490. 

 

Why you should care: Add great Italian cuisine to a Chao Phraya terrace, plus the Oriental’s Author’s Lounge in the background, and you’ve got somewhere quite special at around the same price as your average Thonglor opening. Natcha Sanguankiattichai