After first opening its doors on Phra Athit Road in 2015, cooking school-slash-chef’s table restaurant Bangkok Bold has since leveraged its growing reputation for stellar Thai cuisine by spinning off this second eatery. The chef dream team of Supanut “Ann” Kanarak, Chortip “Nhoi” Ouypornchai-sakul and Piya “Tapooh” Chayapum have created a friendly and accessible mall vibe at their newer a la carte restaurant, while still delivering delicious food.
Although located in Thonburi, their place enjoyed good foot traffic during our visit on a Sunday afternoon. The chefs mine their deep knowledge of Thai food to add unique touches to typical comfort dishes, resulting in some extraordinary flavors.
Their lhon pu (coconut milk dip with crab meat, B190) is brought to another level, thanks to the added flavors and finely grained texture of salted egg yolk. The refreshing salmon pla (Thai spicy salad, B220) features clean and crisp flourishes of fresh cucumber, pennywort and herbs, pairing perfectly with a citrusy dressing that also cooks the raw salmon slices. Even the simplest kai jiew (egg omelet, B90) gets dressed up with kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass.
However, it wasn’t all smooth sailing. The idea and flavors behind the stir-fried Thai mackerel with acacia, chilies and pork cracklings (B170) are excellent, smartly utilizing the ingredients left over from a shrimp paste meal. But it was all too greasy. And their tom yam kung (B200), despite the fresh shrimp and herbal aroma, was too creamy for us.
We’d rather order the gaeng lao (B180), a coconut milk-based version of Isaan’s herbal soup gaeng orm. Top off your experience with an exceptional coconut cake (layers of pandan sponge cake and young coconut cream served in a fresh coconut shell, B150), a balanced affair between rich yet refreshing cream and a fluffy sponge base.
Though the venue is a bit out the way and requires traveling across the river, we’d say it’s worth a casual meal on a Sunday.
This review took place in June 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.