Amerigo Sesti is cooking casual pasta with fine dining flair at Antito.
The buzz: Michelin-starred Amerigo Sesti of the famed French fare at J’AIME is revisiting his roots with a new Italian restaurant. Casual it may be, but Sesti’s fine dining chops are still on display, flexing creative muscle to showcase authentic Italian cuisine.
The decor: Located on the 14th floor of Eastin Sathorn Hotel, Antito takes up the former space of big-name British chef Martin Blunos. Sesti’s new place is, however, not afraid to be playful, with texture, patterns, and color at every turn. The bold color scheme and chic, cheerful pop-art references–think Andy Warhol and Roy Lichenstein–add flamboyant charm. Sit in front of the semi-open kitchen to see Sesti work his magic or take in the air poolside.
The food: Unlike his J’AIME creations, you can sample Sesti’s native dishes for a fraction of the price. For starters, go for the southern Italian staple prawn carpaccio (B620)–which looks more like an art installation than antipasti. Bouncy tiger prawns sit with candy tomatoes and eggplant infused with lemon oil, leaving diners with a fresh, clean palette. Equally delightful is the cavatelli arrabbiata (B330): hand-rolled shell-like pasta in rich arrabbiata sauce topped with mouthful portions of smoked ricotta. The highlight, and perhaps our favorite, is his pizza fritta (B380). Imagine the crispy deep-fried dough with a vibrant blow of sweet tomato sauce, combined with an unapologetically large spoonful of fresh burrata. The most punchily priced dish we try is the overnight-braised pork collar in marinated red wine sauce (B670). It’s majestically straightforward: tender and savory, accompanied by carrot and potato puree. His Meringata (B310) will challenge even the fiercest meringue aficionado; crack the outer shelf for the hidden ice cream inside.
The drink: Signature cocktails start at B350 and are as vibrant as the restaurant’s deco. Refresh yourself with a Lychee Pop, a light rum concoction with lychee syrup that comes with a large lychee popsicle that adds subtle, fruity flavors as it melts. Sesti also has a wide selection of wine at his disposal either served by the bottle or by the glass. Corkage runs B500.
Why’d we come back: A restaurant of this quality that doesn’t end in a bill that makes you weep is rare–and it’s close to BTS Surasak. The head chef is there everyday so the Sesti style is a guarantee. By Porpor Leelasestaporn
|Address:||Antito, 14/F, Eastin Grand Hotel, South Sathorn Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Opening hours:||daily 11:30am-11pm|
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