Tucked behind Wat Kaek on Pan Road, Annapurna does for curries and chapati what nearby Tamilnadu does for Southern dosa—a no-nonsense space serving cheap, simple yet well-executed dishes.

Don’t let the once-white wallpaper and its signs of rising damp put you off from stepping inside what is actually a perfectly friendly and efficient restaurant, its service staff (and other customers) happy to walk you through the menu.

Though the list of dishes is long and ticks tourist staples from chicken tikka masala (B180) to garlic naan (B50), a look around the dining room will tell you that thali sets—India’s steel canteen trays of varied curries, veg dishes, breads and pickles—are the order of the day. These cost just B140 (vegetarian) or B200 (non-veg) and come with one curry, tadka dal (stewed lentils), a vegetable side (on our last visit, okra masala), plain yogurt, rice, two chapati and a papadum (both types of flatbread).

Dig into the non-vegetarian thali’s chicken masala (B150 a la carte) and you won’t de disappointed. Its rich, thick gravy packs huge flavor, with a well-salted taste and nicely stewed meat that falls from the bone. The dal is equally satisfying, a big step above more watery style of nearby competition like Tamilnadu and Akshaya. Ditto with the onion bhaji (B60), which are perfectly fried (golden crisp outside yet with a fluffy dough beneath) and uncompromisingly spiced.

The aloo mattur (potato and pea masala, B50) is forgettable and the chapati are tired, but you can do worse. And while the drinks menu doesn’t have any alcohol, tables of guys toting their own bottles of 100 Pipers prove management’s not too fussy about keeping things T-total. If that’s not your thing, finish with a masala chai for B20.

This review took place in December 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.