This century-old restaurant is a must-see for any visitor to the city. It was originally a teahouse frequented by famous poets, novelists and playwrights in the late Qing dynasty, serving only tea and a small selection of dim sum. It closed down in 1927 due to bad debts before being revived by the Kuomintang in 1933, who transformed it into a fine-dining restaurant. Though the KMT have come and gone, Tao Tao Ju still stands, serving some of the best Cantonese dim sum in the country. Though the dim sum may be a bit rustic for modern palates, there are some seriously old-school Cantonese dishes that are hard to find in Hong Kong such as a divinely simple lo mein, modestly sautéed with leeks. The highlight of our visit there, however, was the roast goose. Crisp skin, lean meat and drenched in its own sweet and savory juices, it puts even our own Yung Kee to shame. Be warned though: the portions are ginormous.