The buzz: Grand Hyatt Erawan’s French fine-dining restaurant, Tables Grill, has been reborn as a warm Italian trattoria with family-style dishes made for sharing. 

The vibe: The natural woods and white tablecloths of Tables Grill remain, now broken up by wooden screens that create an indoor-outdoor feel as light seeps in from the glass-filled lobby below. Warm lighting, potted trees and rattan furnishings create a homey atmosphere, supported by glass cabinets filled with Italian knick-knacks and polished wine glasses. As you wait for your food to arrive, check out the bread counter where chefs prepare mouth-watering fresh focaccia.

The food: Italian chef Roberto Parentela has been poached from downstairs’ Spasso—which has now temporarily become a bar—and oversees a succinct one-page menu that covers all the essentials of Italian multi-course dining. Start with the fresh and creamy burrata e pomodori (B390) with organic tomatoes, shallots and olives, before digging into the paccheri neri al granchio (B790), large tubes of squid ink pasta cooked al dente and topped with meaty Surat Thani crab in a rich shellfish broth. The fusilli caserecci al ferretto (B330) makes a comforting alternative with fresh homemade pasta, gamey slow-braised lamb ragu and dried ricotta. Portions here are made for sharing, but smaller groups can take advantage of the “light” pizza options, which come with perfectly charred crusts—try the salsiccia e broccolini (B230 light/B430 full), topped with mozzarella, gorgonzola, red onion, sausage and broccolini. If you've still got space for a meat course, you can indulge in the mammoth grapevine-grilled Australian Angus ribeye (B1,280), served pink on a bed of rocket and tomatoes. End your meal with the classic creamy tiramisu (B190), laced with a healthy amount of amaretto. 

The drinks: Order a refreshing glass of Prosecco Nino Franco, Rustico, Veneto, NV (B250/1,250) to start, followed by fruity Italian soda (B120) or wine from the list of Italian labels. Bottles range from B900 (or B200/glass) for Casa Bottega, Pinot Grigio, Venezie 2018 all the way up to B20,000 for Dal Forno Romano, Amarone Classico delle Valpolicella, Veneto 2008. Finish with a punchy Lavazza espresso (B130) or a classic negroni (B290). 

Why we'd come back: This restaurant may be located in a five-star hotel, but it forgoes stuffiness with its generous portions, reasonable prices and warm atmosphere.