For more than 13 years, Taste of Persia offered Bangkok a rare taste of Iranian food from a shop-house on leafy Pan Road. With new ownership as of early 2017, the renamed Persian House continues the legacy with a new, rich turquoise look, intimate interior and golden sculptures.

For the uninitiated, Iran’s herb-laced dishes are commonly described as milder than those of India and Pakistan, not as meat-heavy or pungent as those of the Middle East. As if to compromise, the menu here does feature the usual selection of pan-Arabic grill dishes, as well as a tacked-on page of Thai staples.

Appetizers get things off on the right foot, with a tangy, crisp tabouli (minced parsley salad with cucumber, tomatoes and bulgur, B130) making for an addictive pairing with mast bourani (B80), a creamy eggplant dip with a hint of mint oil. Perhaps unexpectedly, Persian House’s standout dish is a simple rice one. Baghali polo (B120) is a traditional Iranian rice dish that combines the delicate flavors of broad bean and dill. Delicious on its own, the rice also helps take off the oh-so-salty edge of the khoresht goosht (B470), a lamb stew with fall-off-the-bone meat in a runny broth. Another meat dish, the kebab ghafghazi (B250), features grilled minced tenderloin beef with red cabbage and a selection of understated condiments. The meat is juicy with a nice bounciness about it if moderately seasoned. 

While flavors here are relatively restrained, some dishes just taste of nothing much at all, like the light and watery soup e jo (barley soup, B80) or the hummus (B130), drowned in olive oil. On our last visit, the naan bread also came out cold and stiff. To drink, try the doogh (B25), a savory yogurt-based drink, but be warned: it’s seriously salty.

Persian House’s near emptiness on our last visit doesn’t do the place justice, as there are some interesting flavors on show at pocket-friendly prices. Perhaps it’s just a sign that competition is tight around Silom, where Lebanese stalwarts Nadimo’s and Beirut, and Turkish long-timer Saman, rule the roost. No corkage charge 

This review took place in October 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.