Gismo is a product of cafe culture’s age of Instagram: hanging terrariums, cast-iron pans, fake plants, distressed or corrugated walls and sweeping communal tables. Its photogenic backdrop has the air of a venue ready-made for a company shindig, birthday party or brunch meetup.

The food falls into the well-traveled territory of Western all-day-dining (synonymous nowadays with brunch fare and pasta) that’s also already well-executed by other Bangkok favorites, like Roast. But Gismo doesn’t meet the city’s standard. It all looks and sounds right, but as in the example of their avocado toast (B320) topped with a poached egg, spicy tuna and salad, the sum is less than its parts. The ingredients arrive mushed together in a stack of indistinguishable and mild flavors.

The tuna eggplant salad (B260) and the fettuccine with yellowfin tuna (B420) dressed in bouillabaisse sauce are similarly without texture or significant taste, a surprise given the vibrant pink potential of the seared tuna. Even the herbs that dress the dishes are blanched of life.

Forgo the tuna varieties for the roasted baby chicken (B540) that’s served with sides of roasted potatoes and a whole head of roasted garlic. The bird’s satisfyingly crip skin hides tender, juicy meat that, while bland alone, comes together deliciously with the two sauces: jim jaew and a beer-based other.

We washed all this down with the Elderflower Sour (B290), a mix of Irish whiskey, elderflower and lime that’s refreshing and lightly perfumed, if unambitious—the sort of drink you look for in a brunch spot. The dessert of mango and berry mousse (B220) whips together mascarpone cream and mango into soft peaks that contrast nicely with the sprinkling of cookie crumbs and pistachio. Also a boon are the attentive, enthusiastic wait staff, who are full of recommendations should you ask.

But would we recommend the restaurant? Considering the labyrinthine location and underwhelming dishes, not for anything beyond its Instagram credentials.

This review took place in March 2018 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.