Marie Guimar was a Japanese-Portuguese woman who introduced Portuguese-influenced desserts like thong yod (golden drops) and foi thong (golden threads) to Thailand back in the Ayutthaya period. But don’t expect to find either classic old Thai recipes or Portuguese fusion at this restaurant.

The same team behind French restaurant 4 Garcons instead dishes out three cuisines: Indonesian, Vietnamese and Thai, with the latter dominating the menu. You’ll find a bit of everything from nostalgic home-cooked dishes like khao pad kak moo (fried rice with pork crackling) and pad krapao (B140-180) to khao chae (soaked steamed rice in iced water with side dishes, B320).

Most of the Vietnamese offerings can be found in the salad section, including the refreshing goi ngo sen nam bao ngu (lotus stem and mushroom salad, B160), which packs a satisfying mix of sliced shallots, pickled cucumber, chopped peanuts, deep-fried shallots and sour Vietnamese vinaigrette.

As for Indonesian, the recommended soto betawi (cocount-based Jakarta beef soup, B180) isn’t as rich as a Thai coconut curry yet still reveals bold and balanced flavors. It’s more successful than the deep-fried half duck (B450), which, though  light and crispy, relies on the aromatic Indonesian coconut rice and chili dipping sauce for flavor. The same rice features in the khao mun somtam (seasoned rice with papaya salad, shredded pork and chicken curry, B200), which comes served in a cute triple-decker Thai tiffin, and all the elements get along very well. 

The only real linkage we found between the restaurant name and the food is the namesake Marie Guimar tart (B130), which is basically an almond tart with two yolk-based treats: thong yod and foi thong. It reads too sweet but tastes genius—textured and aromatic.

With its conservatory-style glass facade and well-curated Southeast Asian bric-a-brac, Marie Guimar comes across as fancy enough without being too formal, making for a relaxing place for friends and families who want dishes that are comforting without being boring. Corkage B300.

This review took place in April 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.