Kenzo, Kate Moss, Calvin Klein—when the fashion crowd descends upon high- end retreat Amanpuri, their port of call in Phuket Town is always Ka Jok See. The charming old shophouse serves acceptable Thai food (no frills, no fusion) but people come mostly for the atmosphere. Weekends see drag shows with a retro touch (the oversized Marylyn Monroe is divine) and, after dinner, tables are usually pushed aside (or used as podiums) for some late-night dancing.