Just when we thought 2013 was a wrap, a few intriguing restaurants popped up in town, all of which were headed by Thai chefs: Le Du, Rock and Sheepshank. Obviously Thai chefs aren’t exactly new: guys like Ian Kittichai have even managed to achieve some level of international fame. But for three exciting kitchens to open up back-to-back with the spotlight firmly on their local chefs does mark a seismic shift in Bangkok’s dining scene. No longer is it the obligatory to have Stefano or Jean-Michel coming out to greet your guests, while a faceless army of Thais chop the carrots. Nor is asking about the chef in a Thai restaurant, which were traditionally manned by “cooks,” met with bewilderment. So, how did Thai chefs get their big breakthrough? Well it seems it's down to better education and a lot of very hard work in prestigious kitchens abroad.

SCHOOL’S COOL

“In the past, almost every chef in five-star hotels was farang,” explains Chef Van Rohitratana of Escapade, who says the problem stems from the Thai perception that being a chef was a lowly profession. “I think the change started with cooking TV shows in the early 2000's like Dae Jang Geum and Top Chefs. They made it OK for parents to send their kids to culinary schools and some even sent them abroad.” Van also feels the 2008 financial crisis, which he believes led to a drop in the quality of food served by hotels played a part. Young chefs were quick to spot an opportunity. Van says, “You had these kids coming back from studying abroad and they wanted to open their own standalone restaurants. You had a whole new generation starting to cook.”

“You had a whole new generation starting to cook”

In 2007, the Le Cordon Bleu cooking school opened, attracting another group of wannabe chefs, the moneyed kids. But while this showed just how cool being a chef had become, it also produced a lot of chefs with limited experience, who went on to open restaurants with dad’s money. Needless to say, that crowd did little to enhance Thai chefs' reputations. But other chefs began coming back home from abroad, and they had experience in Michelin-star kitchens, such as Tee Kachonklin, who at 26 years old opened La Table de Tee in 2011, after working at Roussillion, in London.

BK ASKS

What’s your worst cooking disaster?

Fai Thanannapassara, 27, news anchor

"I was trying to make khai toon (steamed egg in Chinese style) for the first time for breakfast and I thought I could pull it off very easily in a microwave oven. So, I cracked two eggs in a heat-safe bowl, placed it in the oven and waited. After a few seconds, the bell rang. As proud as one could be with my first attempt at a new recipe, I opened the machine, expecting a well-cooked dish, but then boom! Tiny bits of very hot steamed egg went all over my face. No breakfast, a swollen face and late for work. I still have no idea what could have gone wrong."

Chalermphan Phairoj, 25, cinematographer

When I was in the US, whenever I tried to cook something, I would always put butter in it. One day, I turned the heat up to maximum and put in the butter. Immediately, the smoke got really bad throughout the room, then the fire alarm went off. After a few minutes, the police came and everyone was shouting like it was an emergency. Who knew it was just a chunk of butter?

WORKING FROM THE BOTTOM

“I would never recommend that anyone who just finished culinary school open a restaurant immediately,” Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, of Le Du says. He and chef Worathon “Tae” Udomchalotorn have the kind of resume we’re used to seeing from the foreign chefs that lead Bangkok’s five-star hotel kitchens: they completed degrees from the highly-esteemed Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants, such as the renowned Red Medicine in California, where Worathon worked as a Chef de Partie.

“I didn’t care if I didn’t get paid when I was a trainee,” says Worathon. “I just knew I had to work with at Michelin restaurants to improve.”

While chef is a respected career path in Europe, it’s also one of the most grueling jobs out there. Those who want to be a chef usually start their career at the age of fifteen through vocational training and slowly work their way up. For example, Ian Kittichai, of Issaya, started as a lowly dishwasher at the Waldorf Hotel in London. 

“Being a chef is hard, hard work,” says Chef Nan Bunyasaranand of Little Beast, who started her career at 19 in a hotel kitchen in Bangkok. “All I did was chop onions for three months. I cried during the first week. I came home and begged my parents to just send me to CIA right away as I didn’t want to just chop vegetables. But luckily, they realized that being a chef is a long-term commitment.”

She was a trainee in three more restaurants before getting sent off to CIA, then worked at the prestigious Jean-Georges Restaurant (New York) and Thomas Keller (New York). “Every aspect of the kitchen is vital, from peeling the grapes to differentiating white pepper from very white pepper. When a stainless steel table has a scratch, you have to polish it with Scotchbrite to make all the scratches go in the same direction.”

“If you read the profile of most of the chefs in the world, no one just graduated from a culinary school and made it big” 

Chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, consultant of Rock restaurant, graduated from Johnson & Wales University in Colorado, USA, and worked in mostly French restaurants in the US for five years before coming back to Thailand to work in closed-down Parata Daimond and David Thompson’s Thai restaurant, Nahm. She says, “Once I knew I wanted to cook, I realized that everyone has to pay their dues. I’ve had chefs throw dishes at me. I’ve been getting screamed at since I was a trainee.”

“If you read the profile of most of the chefs in the world, no one just graduated from a culinary school and made it big. Everyone started from picking off the vegetable leafs or cleaning the kitchen at one point,” says Little Beast’s Nan. Van of Escapade explains that this is key to being able to lead everyone in the kitchen: “Experience gives me the feeling of being a khon krua (kitchen staff). When you have your own restaurant, you’ll know everyone’s duty as you already passed through what they’re passing through. You’ll know how to communicate with them.”

Perhaps counterintuitively, working for others is also named by the chefs we spoke to as the source of their creativity. Coming out of school, everyone is doing the same recipes the same way. It’s by working in a real kitchen that chefs develop a personal style. “It takes time to develop your own vision and sensibility,” says Rock’s chef, Nhoi. 

BK ASKS

What’s your worst cooking disaster?

Pavida Chitprasertsuk, 23, marketing executive

"For a Christmas party, I was trying to make a fabulous croquembouche (pastry puff tower) for my guests. It already took eight hours to make, but the real disaster came when everyone was about to arrive and all the balls just fell over. I tried to stay calm and made the caramel, but I was in hurry so I pretty badly burnt my hand."

Varittha Akarithakij, 27, business owner

"I was trying to impress my dad by making him some Chinese herbal soup because he was sick. I left the soup for a while, so I needed to reheat it in the microwave oven. After the alarm rang, I took it off the machine and then it exploded into my face. It was a big bowl and so I was taken to the hospital right away. It was bad and I stayed in the hospital for days. It took months for my face to recover."

CHANGING ATTITUDES

Of course, there’s still room for Thai chefs to grow—and maybe it comes down to us to help them along. Too often, diners still get hung up on the nationality of their chef. There was an outcry when David Thompson started cooking Thai food in Bangkok, and similarly, foreign chefs are expected to be the best at foreign food. “When they see me, diners will go, ‘This is the chef?’” says Nan, of Little Beast.

“Twenty percent of the customers in Bangkok don't even call if they don't show up for their reservation” 

“Thais also love celebrities too much,” she adds. “If an actor or actress opens a restaurant then he or she is called a chef. Or if someone graduates from a cooking school, puts on a sexy tank top and bakes a cake on YouTube, I think that’s very disrespectful of our profession. And it doesn’t push our food industry forward.”

With Thai restaurants, the chef is seldom mentioned at all. Supanniga was described as the food cooked by owner Eh Laowaridge’s grandmother. Similarly, recent opening The Never Ending Summer, backed by starchitect Duangrit Bunnag and Naree Boonyakiat, is meant to evoke the dishes of the partners’ childhood. In both cases, the restaurants were presented with a focus on the bourgeois households whose food they were meant to evoke, with no mention of the chefs actually cooking it. 

According to Ian Kittichai, diners too need to show more respect in general. “Twenty percent of the customers in Bangkok don’t even call if they don’t show up for their reservation. For the food and restaurant scene here to grow and flourish, diners need to be more aware of and respect the effort and hard work all of the restaurant staff.”

The Thai chefs who have risen to the fore are blazing a path for those dreaming of a career in the kitchen. But they also come with a warning: becoming a chef is a long, painful process. 

Essentials

Issaya Siamese Club

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. www.issaya.com. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm

Escapade Burgers & Shakes

112 Phra Arthit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 4pm-midnight

Rock Restaurant & Bar

7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-688-8200. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight.

Little Beast

44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sat 5:30pm-1am; Sun 11am-4pm

Le Du

339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. www.ledubkk.com Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Sat 6-11pm

Further Reading

Is the Michelin Guide coming to Bangkok?

The man with the most Michelin Stars in the world, Joel Robuchon, is hiring for this Bangkok eatery

Your family’s love can help you get through storms in life. Love can give you the strength to move on no matter what you’re facing.

My mom had a breakdown after she broke up with my dad. She fell into serious depression, and couldn’t take care of simple things like cooking for us. I was nine then. I went to my neighbors and asked them if they could talk to her. When she saw what I’d done, I think she realized how much her kids really loved her. She picked herself up and moved us all to the US.

Hardship made me grow up fast. I used to be a self-centered kid who would get everything I wanted. But seeing my mom and my sister work so hard to earn a living in the US, it made me realize that our lives weren’t the same as when we were in Thailand. So I started working part-time with them.

I feel for students who work part-time in Thailand. The minimum wage here is so low compared to the work. They won’t be able to send themselves to school or college like those who work in the US. I sent myself to college and I graduated in animation. But here, it’s nearly impossible.

Singing wasn’t my thing at the beginning. I just sang for fun at my friend’s restaurant until it became a job. 

I love R&B from the Motown era. I love to listen to old songs. Those songs are really charming and sincere. It’s the base of every musical genre that exists today.

Life is a rollercoaster, not a space rocket. It’s impossible for your life to get higher and higher and more successful all the time. I always remind myself of this fact to stay humble, sane and happy no matter where I am today.

The highest peak of my existence was when I was chosen to sing with Boyd Kosiyabong in Los Angeles, where he arranged a Christian concert. He then asked me to sing for him on “What Will I Do” on the album Rhythm & Boyd E1EVEN1H in Thailand. I jumped at the opportunity right away. 

I nearly gave up on music. I had no job for months after I worked with Boyd. I was so stresssed out, I even thought of going back to the US. I’d go for long walks to clear my thoughts. One time I ended up walking from BTS Phra Khanong to Rama 9 Road.

Don’t let yourself be buried in fear. You must put yourself up to what you want to do, and do it to the end. If you don’t give up, it will happen someday. 

Never stop improving. Don’t let yourself be flattered with compliments saying you’re already good at what you do. If you keep doing the same thing, people will eventually pass you by. 

I love performing. It’s lucky that my work isn’t really work. It fulfills me every time. It’s a natural high.

Touring is dangerous for artists in Thailand. We need to go everywhere by van and everything depends on the driver. There was a night that we finished a concert at 3am and had to come back to Bangkok. Our driver was nodding off, his head dropping several times, so I asked him to stop. 

Once, I was on stage when I hit the microphone so hard, one of my front teeth cracked into small pieces. I ran to the dentist the next morning but I’m still afraid of bringing a microphone too close to my mouth!

I cherish honesty in friendships. I don’t have many friends here with whom I can talk openly. So I always cherish those I have as they always stand by me every time I need someone to talk to.

Guys must be the one to yield in relationship. I heard that from a pastor I met at a wedding. I think it’s true, but to be honest, I’m still trying to be that kind of guy.

Making something worth being remembered for is exceptional. I wish I could do something like that, even if it’s on a small scale. 

Life is short. Don’t work too hard to the point where you have no time to enjoy your beautiful life with the ones you love, especially your parents. You don’t want to look up one day and realize they’re gone.

Spending money alone is useless. Sharing it with others and giving it away will make your life meaningful. 

Make Like A Tourist

Wat Traimitr Wittayaram

661 Charoen Krung Road, Samphanthawong District, open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm

An ideal starting point for those who want to brush up on their Chinatown history, this temple isn’t just home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image but also houses the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre. Situated on the second floor it offers a deep insight into the neighborhood and a history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok. The eight-minute multimedia presentation (available in English) runs every hour from 9am to 4pm. There are six exhibition zones which trace the history of Chinese immigrants from the early Rattanakosin period and explore the community’s development. They also offer interactive guides of where to eat and what to do in the area and a souvenir shop selling Chinese lucky charms from B50 to B300. Free entry for Thais and B100 for foreigners.

Lor Yaowaraj

Open daily from 8am–midnight. 02-886-2376

This quirky grocery store has actually been operating on this site for over 70 years, selling imported Chinese and Vietnamese food at wholesales prices. Yet, despite its age it now has an achingly hip retro vibe thanks to a complete renovation by the family’s third generation owner, Pardprada Gunyaviriya (See Q&A and 13 New Faces You Need to Watch This Year, this page). The chaotic traditional wholesaler has been transformed into a stylish store with black walls, green lamps, and a clean layout, offering over 5,000 imported products.

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat

Mangkorn Road, 02-222-3975, open daily 6am-6pm

Built way back in the reign of King Rama V in 1871, this temple, whose name means dragon lotus, was the first and remains one of the most important Chinese temples in Bangkok, especially during Chinese New Year and the annual vegetarian festival. The temple complex actually contains Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian shrines representing the broad mix of religious heritage that can be found in Chinatown and the place is usually bustling with locals lighting incense and making offerings to their ancestors.

Somchai  Kwangtongpanich, 49 

As a fourth-generation Thai-Chinese, Somchai grew up in Chinatown running his family’s business selling rope. With a strong interest in his origins and knowledge of Chinese history in Thailand, he helped set up the local museum and heritage center at Wat Traimitr (661 Charoen Krung Road, Samphanthawong District, open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm).  

How has Yaowarat changed over the years? 

In the golden days of Yaowarat, about 50 years ago, all of the best entertainment and restaurants were here. Many people come here today to enjoy grilled seafood on the street and think it’s the best. I think it’s the worst it’s been. Grilled food is actually considered pedestrian in China because it doesn’t need much preparation. Previously, we also used more Chinese language. Now it’s going. Even the Chinese signs are gone. If no one works to preserve it, it’ll disappear totally.  

What will happen this Chinese New Year?

To celebrate the year of the horse, you should visit and pay respect at the Guan U shrine to the god of the horse. But the festival here is losing its identity with every passing year. There are many random street stalls, games, concerts from Grammy singers. We still have the dragon puppet shows but there’s no Chinese opera anymore. It’s good there are many tourists here. It’s not something that I fear as much as how some of us try to adapt to serve them. I fear that we are losing our identity.  

Pardprapa  Gunyaviriya, 28

Pardprapa, or Iku, is the fourth generation of his family in Yaowarat. Last year, he took over the family’s 70-year-old wholesale business, Lor Yaowaraj, and turned it into a stylish grocery store, complete with decorative bicycle out front. Despite initially facing opposition from his family and elders, he has succeeded in making the store a popular destination.  

Why modernize the shop?

I grew up in a show huay [convenience store] selling all sorts of dried food and herbs, which you can find at many places nowadays. I wanted to keep the business in Yaowarat, so I adapted and expanded our customer base to include tourists and younger generations.

What do you think your shop brings to the area? 

My aim is to have a busy, modern shop, without losing the Chinese touch. We haven’t lost our identity. But I want people to remember us as one of Yaowarat’s landmarks.

What are your favourite restaurants in the neighborhood?

I like Guay Jab Nai Ek with its crispy pork, tofu and vegetables in clear soup. Just thinking about it makes me hungry.  

What do you hope to see more in Yaowarat?

More stylish coffee shops, boutique hotels with character, chic cultural museums, tailor shops making quality traditional outfits, unique-looking tourist information kiosks and, of course, good photo opportunities.  

Sivakorn Thongvisirakul, 41

Sivakorn is the fourth generation of his family to run the Eiah-Sae coffee business. From its first branch in Yaowarat, the 85-year-old business has expanded to include nine branches and two franchises. Nevertheless, the original venue retains its charm and serves as a gathering spot for mostly older locals. Though Sivakorn doesn’t live in Yaowarat anymore, he still visits the shop here on a daily basis.

How has Yaowarat changed? 

Many businesses have gone as young people choose to not continue their family businesses. Recently, though, I’ve seen many Chinese from the mainland move here to do business. 

Why did you decide to continue your family business?

My family worked very hard and I wanted to help them continue their work. Personally, I also enjoy offering good service to customers. 

What do you think your business brings to the neighborhood?

Regulars at the shop in Yaowarat tend to be older people who live in the area. It’s become part of their lifestyle. Though we have expanded to include younger customers in other branches, the shop in Yaowarat retains its character.   

What is the charm of Yaowarat?

The people who live here. We have a close community, though we speak loud as if we are shouting at each other and sometimes we have disagreements. We share good friendships and are willing to help each other.  

Drinks

Samsara

1612 Songwat Road, Open Tue-Thu 4pm-midnight,  Fri-Sat 4pm-1am, closed Mon

Samsara is a riverside restaurant tucked down a little alley behind Wat Pathumkongka. Set in one of those charming wooden houses you pass as you ride the express boat along the river, the restaurant offers a nice and relaxing ambience suitable for both dinner and drinks. With a vibe that’s halfway between a gallery and a friend’s house, it’s brimming with personality: expect to find colorful vintage furnishings and all sorts of cat-related curios and paintings hanging on the wall. Most tables are out on the terrace and reservations are a must for those with the best views. The tasty Thai cuisine is augmented by Japanese touches.

Eiah-Sae

101-103 Yaowarat-Padsai Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-0549. Open daily 4am-8pm

Hidden in Padsai street not too far from the main Yaowarat Road, Eiah-Sae is a small Chinese coffee shop with real authentic character. Run by the Thongvisirakul family for over 85 years, Eiah-Sae made its name from its coffee beans, roasted and blended using its own secret techniques. It remains the spot for local Thai-Chinese gatherings, evident in the large number of elderly regulars (mostly men) who come to chat and do business over coffee. The setting is very retro-Chinese, with simple wooden chairs and some old paintings on the wall. The shop is open for breakfast at 4am, serving soft-boiled eggs (B20) and toast (B25-30) with coffee. It also offers traditional drinks such as nor kao, which is a mix of tea and coffee and heng yim, which is an almond-flavored drink. Be warned the cold drinks are very sweet but the atmosphere is definitely unique.

Double Dogs Tea Room

406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

Situated in a shophouse on the main Yaowarat Road, the décor of Double Dogs sets it apart from the neighbors. Decorated with Chinese-style wooden tables, chairs and tea accessories, the smart café is a great spot to take a break and enjoy the air-con with a cup of tea. Choose from more than 40 different types of tea from China and Japan, with the owner (See Q&A, this page) happy to help you choose depending on your character and mood. Chinese teas are priced at B80-B240 a pot and matcha powder tea is B130. There are two Chinese baked tea cake sets available at B95 and B160 which let you enjoy snacks such as peanut roll, sesame fritter, and almond biscuit with your tea.

Jongrak Kittiworakarn, 43 

Originally from Teochew, Jongrak’s family moved to Yaowarat over 60 years ago. He grew up in Yaowarat, only leaving in his twenties to study Molecular Biology in France. After graduating, he worked as a professor at Mahidol University and was involved in a number of research projects. Two years ago, he came back to Yaowarat to open the unique Double Dogs Tea Room. 

What made you come back and open a tea shop in Yaowarat?

It was actually an unexpected opportunity. My mother told me this shophouse had become available so we wanted to do something here. And we thought Yaowarat still lacked a nice place to sit down and relax.

What do you think your shop brings to the area?

My shop is for serious tea drinkers. Though I serve a variety of traditional Chinese tea, most of my customers are not locals. I have many Japanese customers. To locals, it might not make any difference. 

How has Yaowarat changed since when you were young?

The good food has gone. Twenty to 30 years ago there were more quality restaurants serving original Chinese food. Restaurants today cut corners by using lower quality produce. But I understand they have to survive.     

What are your favorites?  

I like Kampu Neung Sod Wan restaurant [fresh steamed crab claws] near Yaowarat Soi 8. Steamed claws are not particularly Chinese but they are so fresh. After you order, they ride a bicycle to the nearby market to buy fresh crabs to cook for you. They also do authentic Hakka Chinese food. I also like New Kuang Meng restaurant on Phadsai Road, the small beef noodles stall on Phiphaska 1 Road and duck boiled rice in Soi Plangnam, which tastes like something your mum would cook for you.

Dining

Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas

Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Road. Open daily Mon-Sat 6.30pm–1am, Sun 5pm–1am. 081-795-1839

If it’s just a beer and some seafood snacks you are after then this is the place. Located in the middle of Soi Texas, Pa Jin has been running her stall, which sells soft boiled cockles and mussels, for over 35 years. She reveals that the secret is the freshness of her shellfish which are from a farm in Petchaburi province. The real highlight, though, is the three different sauces. The spicy and sour seafood sauce is the most popular among locals, while some might find the ancient style sweet and sour “mix sauce” with crushed peanuts easier to handle. Finally, the sweet sauce with crushed peanuts is available for wimps. Priced at B100, a dish is good for two to share. Singha, Heineken and Leo beers are available at B80-120.

Jae Aun Bua Loy Nam Khing

Yaowarat Road, 081-860-1053, 081-612-5700. Open Tue-Sun 7-11pm

Bua loy nam khing (dumplings with ginger tea) is a must-try dessert when you are in Chinatown. Running for over 20 years, Jae Aun is one of the best places to sample them. The top seller is the sesame dumplings which you can choose to pair with either ginger tea or sweetened milk (B30). There are also taro dumplings (B40) and tofu pudding (B15). We recommend the assorted dumplings (B50), which lets you try both the sesame and taro dumplings in one go.

Tasty Toast Yaowarat 

Across from Jae Auan Rad Naa and Bank of Ayudhya, Yaowarat Rd., 08-7598-0888, 08-1492-5131. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-midnight

You will be lured to this stall by the sweet aroma of buttered toast. Though there are a few tables, the young crowd that makes up the majority of its regulars usually order to go. The stall offers three styles of toast: crispy, steamed bun, and crispy on the outside but soft inside. There are many toppings you can choose from including sangkaya (Thai egg custard), chocolate, peanut butter, sweet chilli paste, condensed milk, pineapple and strawberry jam. (B17). The stall also sells hot milk, coffee and tea which you can pair with your delicious toast. 

Yim Yim (or Jim Jim) Restaurant

89 Padsai Road, Behind Hua Seng Hong gold shop, Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm–10pm

Situated on the second floor of a building in the corner of Yaowapanich and Padsai roads, Jim Jim restaurant has been running for over 90 years, offering authentic Teochew Chinese food made from recipes brought over by the owners’ family from China a century ago. The restaurant certainly looks its age, indeed without a recommendation you might not want to walk up the shabby stairs. Still, Jim Jim’s customers are not here for its ambience but the food. Highlight dishes are the roast whole pig with crispy skin (B1,700), seasoned shrimp roll (B25/roll), and oyster omelet (B300-400). 

Hua Seng Hong

371-373 Yaowarat Rd., 02-222-7053. Open daily 9am-1am. www.huasenghong.co.th

Set right on Yaowarat Road with roast ducks, fresh crabs and king prawns hanging out front, Hua Seng Hong is a long-term favorite due to its consistency and variety—a fact backed up by their 13 branches in malls throughout Bangkok. Its Thai dishes are authentic enough but it really specializes in traditional Chinese treats such as braised goosefeet in a clay pot. Other best sellers include roast duck (B200-640), steamed crab with grass noodles and stir fried crab with yellow curry powder (B900-1,050). The seafood here is fresh, the crab is wonderfully meaty and the dim sum well worth trying.

Kuay Jub Nai Lek (Auan)

02-224-3450, 08-1611-6920. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am

In the corner of Yaowarat Soi 11, there are numerous stalls selling Pad Thai, rice and curries, fruit and desserts. Kuay Jub Nai Lek is easiest to spot, though, as it’s by far and away the busiest, selling rice noodles (kuay jub) in a clear soup with crispy pork and pork entrails. You might have to queue up to get a seat and you might have to share a table with strangers ranging from university students to hisos but Nai Lek’s kuay jub is worth the hassle. The highlights have to be the delicious crispy pork (B40) and the strong peppery kick of the soup. 

Seafood Soi Texas

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Road. Open daily, 6pm – 1am

At the beginning of Soi Phadung Dao, locally known as Soi Texas, there are two popular seafood places facing each other across the street. T&K Seafood has its staff wearing green outfits while R&L Seafood is the one with its staff wearing red outfits. We have tried both and their taste, freshness of seafood ingredients and prices are not much different. You can enjoy ample grilled prawns, crabs and scallops and end up paying less than B1,000 for two people. Our recommendations are steamed sea bass in lime juice (B350) and spicy tom yum kung (B150) at T&K restaurant; and amberjack in pandanus leaf (B250) and spicy seafood tom yum soup (B150) at R&L. 

Preeda Parathachariya, 49 

Third generation local Preeda’s in-depth knowledge of his origins, which he shared with the team building the heritage center at Wat Traimitr, saw him enter the Fan Pan Tae (Real Big Fan) TV program in 2003 on the subject of Yaowarat, where he took top honors. 

What do you like about Yaowarat? 

It's my hometown. I like the traditions that have been passed on from generation to generation. I like all of the Chinese festivals here and I’ve been involved in organizing a lot of them. I even had my own dragon puppet troupe before. I also like the variety of businesses and restaurants here.  

Is there anything you want to change in Yaowarat?

The community is not organized here. I think we should have separate zones for different purposes, such as a cultural zone where old people get together for a chat or to play chess. I think we should have a quality control mechanism to make sure that the food and products we offer here meet a good standard. We need support from the government for this.

What do you think about the forthcoming opening of the MRT station here?

This would make the world smaller for us. It will be easier for people to come to Yaowarat, as well as for locals looking to travel elsewhere. Chinatown will become more international, too, with different kinds of businesses, but I hope we can work together to preserve our traditions. I hope the MRT station has signage with a dragon image or something Chinese. I hope to see more Chinese language signs in Yaowarat. 

Your favourite restaurants in Yaowarat? 

I like Shangri-la restaurant, Hua Seng Hong restaurant, and the dimsum in front of Mongkol Samakom temple on Plangnam Road.

I’m in love with books. I love to do anything related to books. That’s why I’m a writer, editor, publisher and bookshop owner.

Good manuscripts drove me to launch Rawang Bantad [Between the Lines] Publishing. I worked as a freelance editor and received many manuscripts to edit, one of which was Prabda Yoon’s Pab Mai Ning [Moving Pictures]. My friends encouraged me to start a publishing house to offer an alternative to readers.

Publishers must be at the center of all book circles. We need to know the writers, meet the financial backers, and negotiate with distributors. We need connections.

My joy at exploring the journeys in each book made me jump into the bookshop business. My work used to end at the printers or with the distributors. But with Candide Bookstore now I actually get to put those books in readers’ hands.

Independent bookshops give readers more choice. Candide tries to push books that are interesting and which people might not know exist. It helps small publishers, too. They can produce books in small runs of about 1,500 copies instead of the 5,000 copies that big chains demand.

Running two businesses by myself was really exhausting. I was editor of my publishing house and running the bookshop at the same time. I had less and less time to edit work. So when our lease at the old place came to an end, I decided to close Candide.  

Book publishers are to blame for people not loving to read. Make books to serve readers, not your own needs. We need to do everything we can to make books attractive to them. 

I love books that move me in some way. I used to love Haruki Murakami because the messages he communicated were so right for me. I would feel run-down after reading one of his book. His works sucked up all my strength. He’s not my favorite now, though, as his recent books are pretty mainstream.

Paperbacks won’t disappear, even though this is the digital age. E-book sales are really slow here. Readers still love the real thing.

E-readers are just gadgets. I used to be excited about e-books and would buy many for my iPad. But in the end, I wouldn’t read them all. It’s too much! I’ve stopped reading them.

Value readers no matter what they are reading. Many people think teen novels like Jamsai Publisher or Dek-D.com are rubbish but I don’t see it that way. You don’t need to read serious novels to be a good reader. It’s about nurturing people to read. One day, they will move on to another level to read about other topics. 

There is no profession that needs freedom more than writers. Freedom of expression is a writer’s biggest tool. That’s why I signed the petition to fix article 112, which protects the monarchy, because it’s nearly impossible to express our ideas on the topic of politics. Some people try to twist this by saying we’re against the monarchy. 

Thai society needs the monarchy, myself included. I still enjoy watching the royal news every night. But in terms of expression, we need to change the law.

There is no space to be neutral in politics. It’s pretty sad that we’re pushed to the other side if we don’t agree with the red shirts or yellow shirts. Each side thinks that people have to fall in line with one way of thinking. That’s why nothing comes of it. 

Reading can solve political problems. Reading opens your mind, so if each side starts reading up on each other’s thoughts, we can start talking. But the problem is each side wants to shut down the other side’s opinions. Anyone can just go to the police station and say you’re against the monarchy.

I’m disappointed by our politics. I used to admire ex-prime minister Chuang Leekpai, but I lost all my faith in the Democrat Party after the killings during the 2010 protests. 

We’re at the lowest point of democracy now. It’s ridiculous that we are in 2014 and we still need to beg people to go to vote. 

Democracy has shown over time that it’s the best option. You pick the representatives who work for you. If they do poorly, wait another four years to vote new ones in. But now it seems many Thai people can’t wait. On the other hand, many people will fight for Thaksin, not because they love him, but because he was ousted by a coup d’état. 

I might vote for the Democrats in this election, if they run. I want them to know how graceful it is to win an election fairly.

It’s distressing that the fate of our country is now in the hands of the Constitutional Court. No matter if something’s voted in by parliament, it still comes down to the court to decide. The parliament, as voted for by the people, should wield ultimate power.

See every day as a challenge. What’s the point of living if you wake up and it’s just another boring day?