Take a break from Singapore and Hong Kong: Jakarta, Manila and Hanoi currently offer three of the most vibrant arts and cultural scenes in Southeast Asia. 

Jakarta, Indonesia

Top festivals to look forward to this year

OK Video

When/Where: TBA

What: Biennial video art festival hosted by the Ruang Rupa collective established in 2003. Each year, the festival is based on a different theme and invites locals and international artists to share their thoughts through the format of video art.

Art Jog

When/Where: Jun 7-22, 

Taman Budaya Yogyakarta

What: Contemporary art fair with art talks and exhibitions from both young and established Indonesian artists.   

Java Jazz Festival

When/Where: Feb 28-Mar 2, Jakarta International Expo.

What: One of the world’s largest jazz events. This year, the three-day event will welcome big-names such as Jamie Cullum, India Arie, Natalie Cole, Earth Wind and Fire Experience and Sadao Watanabe. 

 

Top places to visit

 

Galleries 

Recommended by Anggung Suherman 

 

Komunitas Salihara

Jalan Salihara, No. 16, Pasar Minggu. (+62) 021-789-1202. www.facebook.com/salihara.org  

This community of art enthusiasts bundles together a theater, gallery and café. It’s home to Jakarta’s first black box stage, which has a capacity of 252 people and can be adapted for open-air use. The gallery space is structured in an oval shape aiming to give viewers a borderless experience, offering a range of local and international contemporary art.  

Ruang Rupa

Jalan Tebet Timur Dalam Raya, No.6, Jakarta Selatan. (+62) 021-830-4220. www.ruangrupa.org 

This non-profit organization was established in the early 2000s with an aim to help support the local art scene. Their many projects include Art Lab, which offers collaborative spaces for artists, RURU Gallery, an exhibition space for young artists, an annual writing workshop (Jarakpandang.net), student art event Jakarta 32°c and OK.

Galeri Nasional

Jalan Merdeka Timur No.14. 

Established in 1999, The National Gallery of Indonesia serves as one of the country’s preeminent cultural institutions, today exhibiting over 1,770 artworks by notable local and international artists.

 

Restaurants 

Recommended by Martin Archer (founder of asia-bars.com)

SKYE

56/F Menara BCA, Jalan M.H Thamrin No. 1. (+62) 021-2358-6996. www.ismayagroup.com/skye

One of the most popular rooftop venues in Jakarta, it offers a variety of cuisines including Japanese, Latin American and Middle Eastern with a laidback lounge and poolside seating that provides a sweeping panoramic view.  

Union Brasserie, Bakery & Bar

G/F, Plaza Senayan Courtyard, Jalan Asia Africa No.8. (+62) 021-5790-5861. 

This chic streetside all-day café and bar serves up European and Asian-style dishes amid an energetic bistro atmosphere. Come nighttime, the place is equally famous for its creative cocktails, which take their cues from the cuisine. 

 

Blowfish

G/F, City Plaza at Wisma Mulia, Jalan Jend. Gotot Subroto No. 42. (+62) 021-5297-1234. www.facebook.com/blowfishjakarta

Contemporary Japanese bar and restaurant that’s also a big player in the nightlife scene, welcoming big names DJ from all over the world like Breakbot, Major Lazer, Laidback Luke and our DJ Ono.         

 

 

Bars & Clubs 

Recommended by Bangkok’s DJ Maft Sai

 

Café Modo

Jalan Kemang Raya No. 72 i, Jakarta Selatan. (+62) 021-719-5701. www.facebook.com/CafeMondoJkt   

“Café Modo is this very cool basement club with a record store on the third floor,” says Maft Sai. Put simply, the three-story wooden shophouse is like an Indonesian version of WTF Bangkok and offers Asian fusion dishes, cocktails and retro pop tunes. Some of their regular events include Large Up! (reggae, dub and ska night every Wednesday), Hit Machine (monthly event featuring special guest DJs) and Orkes Dorong Mondo (monthly event under different themes, from old Indonesian tunes to Asian beat, garage and rare grooves).

The Jaya Pub

Jalan MH. Thamrin Kav. 1-2, Jakarta. (+62) 021-319-25633.  

“This place looks just like The Rock Pub in Ratchathewi but plays traditional Indonesian music called ‘dangdut’—pretty much the luk thoong of Indo,” says Maft Sai. Opened since 1975, The Jaya Pub is one of the longest standing bars and restaurants in Jakarta. Expect local-international dishes, long happy hours and daily live bands performing not just traditional tunes, but blues and international covers.

 

 

 

Back in March 2012, local independent music collective Delicate brought Indonesian electro duo Bottlesmoker to perform in Bangkok. Now we chat to Anggung Suherman, one half of the duo, who is also a volunteer at Common Room Networks Foundation and Managing Editor at the Indonesian creative/culture magazine Suave.  

 

What’s the best thing about living in Jakarta?

Party, party, party…and shopping. Jakarta has a great nightlife scene, especially for those after DJs every night of the week. Mainstream electro is everywhere, with lots of clubs to go dancing and get wasted. Art is also quite big in Jakarta, with many artists living here and putting on exhibitions. Because Jakarta is the capital, it hosts lots of international festivals, meaning local artists get to meet artists from other countries. For me, though, Jakarta is not really a great place for making art, but good for selling and exhibiting art. Music is where it’s at for Jakarta, with so much variety, from electro dance to punk. Some 90%-95% of Indonesia’s popular bands are from here, all the national media is here, so the media industry in Jakarta is really big. 

"Music is where it's at for Jakarta, with so much variety, from electro to punk."

How have things evolved over the past five years?

I think the internet has flooded us with information, so there are many references for people to make something new or different. Foreign artists coming to Indonesia have also given us fresh ideas.

What do you think will be the big trend this year? 

I think there will be more concerts from international artists this year, which might actually make things more difficult for local artists. Personally, I hope more local artists get the attention of public—there are a lot of great musicians here.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Top festivals to look forward to this year  

ASEAN Festival II

When/Where: May (TBC).

What: The festival started last year as a spin-off of the annual CAMA festival that has been running since 2005. Whereas CAMA is fully international in the sense that acts can come from anywhere in the world, this one aims to show and support music and youth culture from Southeast Asia. “Last year showcased acts from six of the 10 ASEAN countries and we'd like to do everything we can to make sure all countries are represented as soon as possible,” says Co-organizer Giles Cooper (See Q&A, this page). “Anyone know any good acts from Brunei?”  

 

 

Hanoi Sound Stuff

When/Where: Apr (TBC)

What: Founded by Vietnamese electronic artist and event organizer Doan Tri Minh back in 2008, the very first edition of Hanoi Sound Stuff aimed to be a space for local and international artists to exchange electronic music. The festival has expanded every year, with last year’s event also featuring visual works alongside experimental sounds, music classes and art talks in collaboration with the Goethe Institute.

      

 

Hanoi New Music Festival

When/Where: Dates TBC, DomDom Art Hub and Space

What: Premiered in November and December of last year, this festival also puts the emphasis on experimental music. Founded by composer Kim Ngoc, it aims be a platform for young musicians and also facilitate exchange with guests musicians from Sweden, Denmark, UK, Italy and more. Set in a gallery and outdoor space, the festival lineup spans solo and group physical performance, sound and visual performance and live experimental bands. 

 

Top places to visit in Hanoi

 

 

Art Spaces

Recommended by Douglas Pyper

 

DomDom 

www.facebook.com/domdom.vietnam

This hub for experimental art and music in Hanoi was founded in 2012 and provides training programs on everything from journalism to music. On top of training facilities, the space is equipped with a stage and gallery, which made it the ideal host for last year’s Hanoi New Music Festival.     

 

 

Manzi

14 Phan Huy Ich Street. Open daily: 9am-midnight. 

Set in a charming 20th century French villa, Manzi is a café by day and bar by night. With its very comfortable, easy-going atmosphere, it’s a great place to dine and drink. What’s more, another section of the house is dedicated totally to art: exhibitions, video installations, movie screenings and art talks.     

Tadioto

2/F Building A, 9 Tran Thanh Tong, (+84)-4-6680-9124. www.tadioto.com

Tadioto occupies the second floor of a formerly abandoned building, with only minor redecorations to freshen things up. There’s a space to enjoy coffee, tea and alcohol, with another area for performances and exhibitions.

 

 

Restaurants 

Recommended by Giles Cooper and Maft Sai

 

 

Highway 4

101 Tran Thai Tong, Cau Giay. (+84) 7305-5665 www.highway4.com 

The longstanding Highway 4 just recently moved to a new building which takes the rustic route thanks to its red bricks, bare cement and light brown wooden furniture. The focus is still on traditional Vietnamese cuisine and a drinks list that includes concoctions made with a local rice spirit called Son Tinh. 

Quan An Ngon 

18 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem. (+84) 3942-8162/63. http://ngonhanoi.com.vn 

Set in a teak house, this restaurant offers up home-style Vietnamese dishes in keeping with the vibe of the street they’re located on, which is famous for its street stalls selling pho. 

La Badiane

10 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem. +84 (4) 3942-4509. www.labadiane-hanoi.com 

Focusing on international gastronomy and fusion food. Set in an old white colonial-inspired building, surrounded by lots of trees, the place offers both indoor and outdoor seating, and is all about wine pairings and cocktails. 

 

  

Bars & Clubs 

Recommended by Maft Sai, Space 360, Giles Cooper and Douglas Pyper

 

 

CAMA-ATK

Founded by the CAMA group when they launched their CAMA festival back in 2005, this one-room bar is the epicenter of independent music in Hanoi. To give you some idea: this is the place where crate-digging DJ The Dude of Stratosphere played before heading to Moose earlier this month, while rapper Heems performs here on Jan 24 before joining Popscene in Bangkok (Jan 25). Of course, the place also serves up killer cocktails.    

Hanoi Rock City

If CAMA-ATK is the Vietnamese version of WTF or Moose Bangkok, Hanoi Rock City would be Cosmic Café or Harmonica, host to regular lineups of up-and-coming local artists. Owner Phu Pham founded the place back in 2010 in order to support independent artists and establish one of the best places to catch live gigs in the country.  

Chez Xuan 

This outdoor bar in a garden setting is good for a spot of pre-gaming. The standalone house is decked out with heaps of Chinese-Vietnamese decorations, while the food spans South East Asia. http://chezxuan.com          

 

 

Last year, Hanoi hosted the very first ASEAN Music Festival, featuring performances by bands from Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore and Thailand. With a second edition in the works for this May, we talk to two of the event’s in-the-know organizers, Giles Cooper and Douglas Pyper of CAMA Vietnam (www.camavietnam.org).   

What’s the art, music and nightlife scene like in Hanoi now?

Giles: There's a hell of a lot more going on here these days than when CAMA got started. The local scene, by and for Vietnamese, has really exploded over the last couple of years but it's still a challenging environment to operate in.

Douglas: It’s still very limited. Particularly now, the scene feels very one step forward, two steps back. Last year, a disused pharmaceutical factory in the center of the city became available for rent at reasonable rates, and young, creative people began to move in. Known as Zone 9, the space became home to the usual array of bars, cafes and restaurants, but also art galleries, workshops, and music venues. But unfortunately, the space was closed down by the government last month, and the renters all lost their investment.  

"The local scene by and for Vietnamese has really exploded."

What do you think will be the big trend this year? 

Giles: Steve Aoki played a show in Hanoi at the end of last year that was well attended and I can see 2014 throwing up more and more of that type of big-name action, assuming sponsors are willing to come on board to fund such shows.  Personally speaking, that sort of thing doesn't interest me at all and I'd like to see more grassroots development of Vietnamese youth getting out and about on a regular basis to enjoy more esoteric offerings from local and international indie acts.

Douglas: It’s extremely hard to say at this point, as the city has lost so many venues in such a short space of time. One trend I expect to see continuing to develop is an increase in small-scale acoustic venues featuring solo singer-songwriters/performers. I think we’ll generally see small venues and cafes looking to put on, informal performances as competition for customers heat up and demand for this kind of entertainment increases.

What's the best thing about living in Hanoi?

Giles: It's hard to look past a report that came out just this week declaring Vietnam to have the cheapest beer in the world (bia hoi).  But, if I had to, I'd say it's the “can do” energy of the place: beg forgiveness if necessary, don't ask permission.   

Manila, Philippines

Top festivals to look forward to this year

Fete de la WSK

When/Where: November (Dates/Venue TBA)

What: Organized by SABAW Media Art Kitchen, Fete de la WSK is the Philippines’ only international festival of arts and new media. The festival promotes the country’s rising artists, with exhibitions spanning installations, video, film and experimental music both from local and international artists.  

 

International Silent Film Festival

When/Where: August/ Shang Cineplex Mandaluyong 

What: Claiming to be Asia’s only silent film festival, this is a collaboration between the Japan Foundation, Goethe-Institute, Instituto Cervantes Manila and several foreign embassies. Films screened come from as far afield as Germany, Italy and Japan.    

Manila Music Festival

When/Where: May (Dates/Venue TBA)

What: This is not unlike a smaller version of our Big Mountain Music Festival. Founded in 2012, putting the focus fairly and squarely on local artists with a few international ring-ins. There’s also a separate stage for more experimental electronic sounds. 

Top places to visit

 

Art Spaces

Reccomended by Theculturetrip.com

 

 

 

Pablo Gallery 

Cubao X Branch: Shop 7 Cubao X, Gen. Romulo St., Araneta Center, Quezon City.  (+63 2) 440-8807. 

Fort Branch: C-11 South of Market, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. (+63 2)400-7905. http://pablogalleries.com  

Set in a two-story shophouse, the first branch (Pablo X) looks a lot like a cute café, but inside it’s filled with oft-challenging rotating exhibitions from rising local artists. The second branch (Pablo Fort) keeps to the same art-friendly vibe but puts more focus on established artists.  

Manila Contemporary

Whitespace 2314, Chino roces Avenue, Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati City.  (+63 2) 576-5024. http://manilacontemporary.com

Located in a proper, very clean white building, this place offers up all of its 360-sq-meters of high-ceilinged space to exhibiting contemporary artworks from young artists from the Philippines as well as other Southeast Asian countries. The main space promises 12 exhibitions a year while the smaller room on the second floor is for popup events.      

Green Papaya Art Projects

41B T. Gener St, Kamuning, Quezon City. www.greenpapayaprojects.org

Sat in the middle of a commercial district, this old two-story shophouse is one of the city’s longest standing independently-run art spaces. It’s not only a place to catch exhibitions, but also art talks, gigs and more creative events from locals and international artists.

 

Restaurants 

Recommended by Martin Archer (founder of asia-bars.com)

 

 

Las Flores

Fort Bonifacio. G/F One Mckinley Place, 25th St., Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. (+63 2) 552-2815.

Las Flores serves up modern European/Spanish cuisine with lots of happening brunch, lunch and wine pairing events making the place always lively. Their creative cocktails and extended opening hours make it a tempting place to settle for the night.       

Museum Café

Ayala Museum Complex, Dela Rosa Street, Makati City. (+63 2)757-3000. 

Located on the ground floor of Ayala Museum Complex, the Museum Café, or M Café, serves up traditional Filipino dishes as well as other Asian favorites with an emphasis on modern presentation. With both indoor and outdoor zones, a proper bar and DJ booth on one side, the place is not so much a formal restaurant as a place to chill out. Museum is also known from its brunch events and occasional traditional performances.

Victorino’s Restaurant

11th Jamboree Street corner Scout Rallos, Quezon City. 091-795-30661.

Victorio’s Restaurant is the place to head for home-cooked Ilocano cuisine. This old house-turned-restaurant already offers a real escape from the crowds of Manila’s many, many malls.    

 

  

Bars & Clubs 

 

Recommended by Martin Archer, Maft Sai and Space 360

 

 

 

Rocket Room

7th Avenue Corner 30th Street, G/F Bonifacio High Street Central, Fort Bonifacio. (+63 2)621-3222.

Rocket Room is a hip bar and club—sort of Manila’s version of Moose Bangkok. Decked out in a stylish industrial-retro vibe, it serves as a chill café by day and chic party spot post-sunset thanks to the wide selection of wine, beers, cocktails and DJs spinning all week.

 

 

B-Side

The Collective, 7274 Malugay St. San Antonio Village. Makati City. www.bsidemanila.com 

Think of it as a slightly bigger version of Café Democ during its ‘00s heyday; B-Side is all about propping up independent/underground acts with occasional international DJs and acts brought in. Best known for its Sunday Irie weekly party that serves up reggae and dub with impressive visuals. “One of the best weekly parties in Manila,” says Bangkok's DJ Maft Sai.

Black Market

Warehouse 5, LA Fuerza Compound 2, Sabio St., Makati. (+63)908-813-5622.

Not as dodgy as the name sounds, Black Market may be set in a redecorated warehouse, but the focus is on up-to-the-minute electronic music. Aside from their weekly parties (Wednesday is hip hop/soul, Friday is bass music and Saturday is techno) Black Market is where big names like DJ Krush and Kode 9 perform when in town. Guess where Heems and Onra performed before coming to Bangkok this weekend?

Three Southeast Asian Indie Acts to Check Out 

 

Archaster

Country: The Philippines 

Why you’ll like them: Filipino acoustic pop performer Francis Yu, better known as Archaster, is immediately recognizable for his deep charming voice, which is a little reminiscent of Kings of Convenience’s Erlend Øye or Thailand's Thee Chaidej. His previous songs pair melancholic lyrics with dreamy-pop (“Dreamland”) and psychedelic-infused pop (“Letter to Montecarlo” and “Oakwood Avenue”). But what really caught our ear is his latest release, “I Love You More Than Summer Time,” which leaves the sadness behind to be a real breezy summer anthem. www.soundcloud.com/archaster

 

Afternoon Talk

Country: Indonesia

Why you’ll like them: Ask any self-respecting Thai indie kid and they’ll tell you that 2013 belonged to Part Time Musicians. Well, we’d say this Indonesian three-piece serves up a very similar blend of folk and indie-pop. Our guys might liven things up with more intense guitar sounds and violin, but Afternoon Talk keeps things pretty interesting, too, with some driving percussion and ukulele on tracks like the upbeat “Island” and slightly harder-edged “Hearts,” which is on their latest EP, Contradiction. www.facebook.com/afternoontalk

 

Lyna Trina

Country: Vietnam

Why you’ll like her: If you like strong female vocals accompanied by sparse guitar or piano (think Rachel Yamagata or Daughter), you’ll find much to admire in this Vietnamese bedroom artist. Lyna Trina caught our attention through her YouTube channel, which shows so much more than a pretty girl doing pop covers (yeah, well, she does play some covers). Her self-produced tracks, like her latest “Without,” are easy on the ear but veer from the sweet to the heart-wrenching. www.soundcloud.com/lynatrina/withoutdemo

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Lower Silom, once touristy and quiet, is now heating up with a host of new openings.

You're probably familiar with Upper Silom, which stretches from Rama 4 Road to the Narathiwat Ratchanakarin intersection, with BTS Sala Daeng at its heart. We work there and there's not much to like about the area, except for its fine-dining (D'Sens, Indigo, Ruen Urai) and, of course, the very gay Soi 2. But we're spending our evenings increasingly often in Lower Silom, which stretches from the Narathiwat Intersection to Charoen Krung—an area we seldom frequented in the past except for its excellent galleries: H, Kathmandu, Tang and Thavibu.

Things started to change with the Dean & Deluca at the Mahanakorn Tower site. By the way, that's scheduled to re-open in the first quarter as a full-blown market with cooking stalls and a Joel Robuchon restaurant. Then came the re-opening of the Sofitel Silom as the Pullman G and the arrival of the W. Their respective after-dark hangouts, Scarlett and Woo Bar, breathed a new kind of cool into the area. Maggie Choo's really bluffed us too, for packing in the crowds in a location  that wasn't exactly known for its nightlife. Following in their footsteps, here are the places that opened in the past year.

Signature Restaurant (Ku De Ta)

Just like in Singapore, Ku De Ta’s Signature Restaurant cooks up modern Asian fine-dining, with sweeping views to boot. The kitchen is led by Chef Jonathan Maza, who’s had stints with Nobu in many countries, and delivers a brief menu packed with creative dishes that show off the team's modern techniques and elaborate presentation. The aromatic yellowtail is jazzed up with cilantro vinaigrette (B500), and the addictive asparagus tempura (B300) comes with truffle soy and edamame puree. The mains include madai shiso (Japanese sea bream with dried miso and shiso lime vinaigrette, B500) or, for those on expense accounts, try the strip loin steak (B3,000) with a marble score of A5 from Omi Prefecture in Japan. The restaurant is serious about its sweets, too, whipped up by Chef Jason Licker. Our fave, the Thai S’mores (B360), combines marshmallow with praline and Thai tea ice cream. And if you want to continue drinking, you should head to Ku Bar for their equally intriguing cocktail list. For those who work in the area, the next door restaurant, Izakaya, offers more reasonably-priced lunch sets starting from B350.

 

39/F, Sathorn Square Bldg., Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6-10:30pm

Lady Brett

The folks behind Rocket have just expanded their cafe next door. The welcoming Lady Brett, however, dips its toes into nightlife with its interior inspired by the 20th century taverns of New York. Things are kept very cozy thanks to the wooden bar and window frames, while the menu is focused on simple and natural flavors. Mains range from fire-roasted mustard chicken (B360/B675, hanger steak (B795) and braised lamb shank (690), courtesy of Chef Rene Michelena, formerly of Hong Kong bar and restaurant Lily & Bloom. Sides include baked zucchini with onion and cheddar and grilled buttered corn (B120). The bar which serves up lots of sexy infusions with ingredients like chamomile and ginger. Our picks: the the Crisp n’ Cloudy (rum, pear, ginger and cocoa) or Paloma (tequila, grapefruit and soda) both B330. Upstairs is a small lounge, dubbed U.N.C.L.E., which serves premium spirits. 

149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am

ASK A LOCAL

Suppakij Pucharoensilp, 74, owners of D.K. Bakery, open for nearly 70 years.

What was Silom like in the old days?

There was a canal right where the road is now. We even had trams running from Charoenkrung to Saladaeng. I really deplored it when the government decided to cover the canal to make the road and removed the tram. There were many big trees. It would have been nice to preserve this atmosphere. 

What it’s like to live here now?

I don’t like the car fumes when the traffic gets bad. It’s also hard to find a taxi, because the drivers hate the traffic here. I have to offer them an extra B20 to persuade them to take me home.

What are your favorite places around here?

I love Fu Mui Kee as they’ve served delicious food for so long. My favorites are the pork chop, beef stew and tod mun goong (fried shrimp cake). Too bad that Silom Restaurant just closed down and the original Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek has gone. The new one just isn’t as good. I also love to walk to Prachum market which is just opposite my shop. It’s really convenient as it has everything and I’ve known the sellers for ages. 

 

661

Sat in Niu’s Concerto’s old space, 661 Silom is the new baby of the team behind Le Beaulieu. Climb up to the 2/F to try Meat, which serves up high-quality New York-style steaks prepared by Chef Cyril Cocconi, previously of Elements (The Okura Prestige) and the kitchen of super-chef Joel Robuchon. Downstairs is the bar, Meet, home to the fancy Dom Perignon lounge, which also serves breakfast and coffee during the day.

661, Silom Road, 02-266-8661. BTS Surasak. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

Le Du

Run by two young Thai chefs, Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn and Worathon "Tae" Udomchalotorn, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Le Du is offering Asian-flavored dishes made with modern techniques and local ingredients, like the cold charred leek soup with frozen parfait, which is jazzed up with sunflower seed and cowslip creepers (B160). You can try the four-course set dinner for B990 (B1,980 with booze) but, particularly if you work in the area, the lunch menu makes for a less fancy but satisfying option with some pasta and salad dishes.

Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.ledubkk.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm

ASK A LOCAL

 

 

Lerdluck and Lalida Tabloga, 69 and 66, owners of the legendary 80-year-old restaurant Fu Mui Kee

“The buildings here used to be very elegant when we first moved in but now they’re pretty shabby. But I like it the way it is. I love the slow life here as our neighborhood is mostly residences. It’s good that we’re down a small soi, too, so it’s not too crazy. And Wat Khaek market is better than at the bigger Bangrak market.” —Lerdluck

“We’ve got many memories here, especially of the big floods back in 1986. Luckily our 80-year-old wooden furniture is made from teak. Though I like the calm atmosphere here, it would be great if it could be busier.” —Lalida

 

 

Dan Bahadur, 55, of Mashoor Sweet and Indian Food

How long have you worked here?

It’s been about 10 years. I came from Shan State in Myanmar to open this shop 10 years ago. I worked as a gem dealer in Myanmar, but I changed my mind to sell sweets and food here.

Do lots of Thais come here?

Yes. People love to buy sweets to present  to gods at the temple as well as take home to eat, as we believe these sweets can bring us good fortune. 

What do you like about living here?

I feel so blessed to live near the temple, as I feel it brings us prosperity. 

Where do you eat out?

My favorite  is Krua Aroi Aroi opposite the Wat Khaek entrance. They sell delicious Thai street food.

NIGHTLIFE

Maggie Choo’s

Move past the small noodle shop, with its Chinese paper umbrellas on the ceiling, into the dimly lit main room filled with button-tufted leather couches and an old-school casino cashier counter. The heavy steel doors that guard the private vaults and ladies in chongsams recreate a 1930s speakeasy atmosphere, while the cocktails (B360) come courtesy of old-hand Joseph Boroski. 

Underground of Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. Open Mon-Sun 7pm-2am

Theatre Bar

Self-proclaimed “party hotel” Mode Sathorn is home to this colorful, 60s-style vision of the future. The space is decked out with a theatrical-inspired pop decor marked by a vivid floor with flower-shaped backlights which continually change color, mask-shaped sofas and eye-catching white fabric sphere lamps that serve as film screens for vintage flicks throughout the evening. Resident DJs take turns spinning different nights, with house and progressive the staple sounds. Try their Hollywood-themed cocktails like Jennifer Aniston’s Margarita, Johnny Depp’s Bourbon Sour, Sex and the City (Metropolitan) and Pretty Woman (Grand Marnier, cranberry juice, orange twist and sparkling wine), which go for B280. 

10/F, Mode Sathorn, 144 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Surasuk. 02-623-4555. Open daily 6pm-2am 

Ku Bar (Ku De Ta)

The Japanese-inspired Ku Bar is located on the 39th floor, between restaurants Izakaya and Signature, and serves Japanese aperitifs for those waiting to be seated or a pre-drinking venue for those gearing up for a big night. The dimly lit bar carries plenty of sophisticated touches, like the black granite countertop, while their signature cocktails focus on Japanese spirits and Asian ingredients, with flavors to suit Bangkok’s climate, like the Storm Cooler (B360) with passion fruit, lime, honey, and vodka and the Hurricane Lychee (B360) with lychee, egg white, soda and gin.   

39 & 40/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Chong Nongsi. 02-108-2000. Open Sun-Tues 11am-11pm, Wed-Sat 11am-late

The Roof @ 38th Bar

The latest bar to arrive at Mode Sathorn might be just the place to see the whole picture of Lower Silom, thanks to its panoramic rooftop view that includes three bends in the Chao Phraya River and three bridges. The venue itself occupies a square-shaped balcony, so to take in the whole 360-degree views, you might need to strut a few laps. Otherwise, just opt for one of the cozy sofas facing out from the pavilion. As for dishes, they offer everything from Mexican and Moroccan snacks and cold cuts to inventive dumplings and fusion sushi.

38/F, Mode Sathorn, 144 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Surasuk. 02-623-4555. Open daily 6pm-1am

 

 

ASK A LOCAL

 

 

 

Manit Sriwanichpoom, artist and owner Kathmandu Gallery on Pan Road

How long have you been around here?

My wife and I actually loved to visit Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) so we’re familiar with this area, even though we live on Sukhumvit. I was lucky that I bought this building at a cheap price seven years ago and decided to open the gallery here. 

What do you like most here?

I love that it’s such a melting pot of culture here. There are Hindus at Wat Khaek and if you cross the road, there is Masjid Mirasuddeen where Muslims from here and abroad come to pray. Further towards Sathorn, there is a Catholic church and Chinese communities. It’s really diverse.  

There are lots of new condos being built in the area; how will this change the character of the place?

I’m afraid that it will lose its charm as a close-knit community. When there are problems, people help look out for one another, but those who live in condos barely know each other. They just live between their own walls. Another problem I’ve noticed in recent years is Wat Khaek. Now the district heavily promotes it as an attraction, which detracts from its spiritual significance. 

What is your favorite place?

Well, I love the Indian sweets shop opposite my gallery [Mashoor Sweet and Indian Food]. The guy sells really original versions of Indian desserts. Another place is Yen Ta Fo Wat Khaek and a tam sang (made-to-order) restaurant where I always go for lunch. The best Thai food here, Taling Pling, just moved to a new spot at Baan Silom on Silom soi 19. But Opus, on my soi, is another favorite for when I’m craving Italian food.

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As part of their nonstop 2013-14 world tour in support of their acclaimed second studio album, II, New Zealand/US psychedelic pop-rockers Unknown Mortal Orchestra will visit Bangkok this week before heading to the Laneway Festival in Singapore. BK got a chance to chat with frontman Ruban Nielson about the band’s busy climb to fame.

What’s the major inspiration for you guys in making music?   

It’s the combination of influences that makes the band special. I’m influenced by The Beatles, The Family Stone, The Mothers of Invention and Love, but also Wu-Tang Clan, Boards of Canada, J Dilla and Prince. The combination of these things is what’s important.

With your album II there’s a lot of diversity in mood. How would you describe your sound?

I think that live we’re like a classic three-piece psych-rock band, like the Jimi Hendrix Experience or Cream, but we also have soul elements.

Is there any direction you’d like to experiment in? 

I’ve been rebuilding some really old synths lately. I refurbished a Mini-Korg 700 which is the first keyboard Korg ever made in 1973. I’m using it a lot. I’ve also been rebuilding an old Moog MG-1. I’ve been thinking about people like Wendy Carlos and listening to early 70s Yes and Pink Floyd and things like that. In the first two records there is a bit of that early analog synth texture and I want more of that on the next one. 

You guys have been touring a lot since the release of II, how’s life on the road?

It’s so much fun but also very exhausting. The adrenaline of always being on the move and playing in front of people keeps you going. The best thing is playing music every day with your friends on what is basically a nonstop party. The worst thing is having no personal space, no quiet time alone.

What can we expect from your Bangkok gig? 

I don’t know any bands who have played Thailand. I have friends who visited to study kickboxing and things like that but I have no stories of the music scene. We’re going to play our hearts out for the Bangkok audience and hopefully they’ll connect with our music.

What are you listening to at the moment?

I’m listening to the album Fragile by Yes right now. I just finished listening to a record called Music From Saharan Cellphones Vol. 2

You guys have also just released Blue Records EP; what are your plans for your next studio album?

I’ve started working on the next album already. Next year I’ll be working on it a lot. I’m really excited about writing and recording right now.

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Architects Puiphai Kunawat and Punpong Wiwatkul worked on high-profile projects for Singaporean firm WOHA, such as The Met and the Hansar Hotel. After opening their own firm, Somdoon Architects, three years ago, the duo has just won more laurels at the World Architecture Festival for Siamese Blossom, an eco house in Bangkok.
 

What are the concepts behind Siamese Blossom?

Panpong: Bangkok has been driven by commerce for so long. That’s why you’ll see rows of townhouses that look so stiff, compared to beautiful homes designed as residences. So when we got to design this project on Ramintra Road, we wanted to build a fully functional townhouse where the focus is on the back of the house. The garden there creates a green space instead of just a sad backlot. 

Do you think this award will change things here?

Puiphai: I don’t think so. I think the only way to make this eco-friendly trend sustainable is for the government to offer benefits, such as lower taxes, to any development that is eco-friendly. Green buildings are more expensive than normal ones. So the government should create these laws to persuade developers to think more about the future.

Panpong: I hope it will encourage real estate developers to think more about the clients who must live in those buildings. They must make the building more livable, rather than just thinking about maximum profits. If you build a more eco-friendly house, inhabitants will save money in the long term.

What do you want to see more of in Thai architecture?

Puiphai: I wish Thai architects would explore the international stage more because it’s really good to bring our designs to the world and have them acknowledge us more. When I went to Hong Kong to accept the award at MIPIM Asia for best residential development for IDEO Morph 38, I saw people from many countries, but no Thai was there. It’s a bit lonesome. 

What do you think about our laws blocking foreign architects from working here, such as in the case of Ole Scheeren?

Puiphai: It’s good that we have a world famous architect come here to design a beautiful building for Thailand like Ole Scheeren with the Mahanakhon project. But we should do things lawfully, too. The law specifies that buildings here must have a licensed architect from Thailand, so they should follow the law.

If you could plan a better Bangkok, what do you want to do?

Panpong: We should better connect the old town and the new town which is now the city center. It takes too much effort to reach the old town today.

Puiphai: I’d prefer not to drive a car for the rest of my life. I want Bangkok to be a pleasurable city to walk in. A good city must be a city where people can walk everywhere easily, not like now with the Bangkokians faced with bumpy sidewalks full of signs and motorcycles.

More on Siamese Blossom here

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The 2007 Silpathorn Award winner, Vasan Sitthiket, 56, made his name through provocative artworks that show money and politics raping (sometimes literally) Thailand. A supporter of the People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD), then the People’s Democratic Reform Committee (PDRC), this artist-cum-poet-cum-activist just opened a new gallery in Bangkok, Rebel Art Space, to nurture other rebellious artists. 

Thai society is a gossip society. That’s why my works always speak bluntly. I want people to see and fix problems directly.

The massacre of October 6, 1976, changed me and made me focus on politics. Previously, I was interested in Buddhism and believed that suffering was only in our mind. But the massacre made me understand that those who are in power are the ones who make us suffer.

I dropped out of college to be a teacher in Kampaengpet with the hope that I could create works like Vincent Van Gogh, who didn’t go to art school. But witnessing villagers’ suffering, poverty and daily problems like husbands beating their wives made me realize the difficulty of expressing such things. So I finally came back to finish studying arts and started working as social activist.

An artist’s duty is documenting today’s society. We should record the suffering of unknown people. We artists are the ones who have the time to reflect on these problems, not those who are struggling to make a living.

The poorest are always the ones who get trampled on. They live in fear that they will be in trouble if they rise up against the powers that be. I knew a man who lost his land because of the village head. When he filed a complaint, he was beaten by the police, who were just cronies of the village head.

Thai police are actually hit men in uniform. Many local activists were killed and disappeared after fighting with those in power. Police even hire professional hit men from prison to do certain jobs. Once the work is finished, they put them back in.

We’ve never had real democracy here. The power structures haven’t changed since we got a constitution 80 years ago. We’ve never developed people’s minds. Why do people still worship ghosts or trees to get lucky numbers from the lottery? 

Administrating this country is a job for to everyone. We don’t just vote so that a thief can rule our country. We pay taxes to choose a ruler who will take care of our country. Even a single voice, yours, is not weak. You can change things.

You can buy this country with B12 billion. Just throw out B30 million to 400 representatives for your party, then the election canvassers who control the villages will do the rest. This structure has never been changed. That’s why our country has gotten stuck like this.

Reforming this country is desperately needed. All of society must be involved, no matter whether you are farmer, student or office worker. Many Thai farmers suffered from being tricked by giant Thai food companies, who made them slaves until debt makes them go bankrupt, and they are forced to go work as laborers or prostitutes abroad. We need to shed light on this vicious circle.

Reform might sound utopian, but it’s better than doing nothing.

I want to put all the bad politicians in corrals at Sanamluang and let people come to look at them like animals at the zoo. They can see the ones who have done wrong to our country up close. You can’t even put them at a regular zoo because they are too stinky for the animals to bear. Also, their money would be seized and shared with the people in their constituency.

We don’t want another coup d’état because generals in this country are really stupid. They never understand the real problems of this country. They just sit around drinking B200,000 bottles of wine given to them by capitalists.

The army must be reformed, too. They shouldn’t have generals anymore. These generals just play golf and become “advisors” for giant companies. It’s like they are hired to protect these capitalist thieves. 

I wish we could run this country according to Dhammic socialism, which was invented by famous monk Buddhadasa. He said we should control bad people, give more freedom to good people and take more taxes from rich people.

We must change people to stop admiring the rich. The rich should be suspected of being thieves who are corrupt or sell ya baa (amphetamine) because there is no way that salarymen earning B15,000-B30,000 could ever able to buy the kinds of mansion they live in. 

Red shirts are hypocrites. The government and the legislators tore down the constitution by proposing that notorious amnesty bill. But now the government and red shirt academics are saying they must stick to the law of this constitution and that is why the new elections must happen in 45 days. 

Red shirt cronies such as Weng Tochirakarn are just dogs who want to get rid of feudalism. But then they will oust Thaksin and make the country socialist. 

Our education system just teaches children to be slaves to capitalism. You can study to work in the system or just sell noodles and dump that decades-long education that can’t be used in real life.

Confidence is essential to being a human. If you were born to just make a living, you’re the living dead.

Remember that you are valuable. Be confident you can be anything that you want and live a life that is worthwhile every day.

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Take a peek at what’s coming to town this year. 

RESTAURANTS AND BARS

1881 by Water Library

The opening of Groove last month included this intriguing gastro bar, run by the people behind the two branches of Water Library. The international comfort dishes (B150-B900) span snacks to brunch, full courses and desserts—all served up by Swiss Chef Urs Lustenberger, who you'll sometimes spot in Water Library Thonglor’s kitchen. Nighttime is when things really heat up with live bands and a bar that illuminates the dining room and is inspired by a 19th-century steam power plant. If you’re like us, you’ll jump at any chance to taste a cocktail from top mixologist Mirko Gardelliano. Groove, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam. Open daily 10-2am.

Siam Wisdom

Popular Chef Chumpol Jangprai (of Iron Chef fame and formerly of Blue Elephant Copenhagen) opens his first restaurant in Bangkok. The eatery will be set in three Thai traditional houses and, as the name suggests, put the emphasis on local recipes and produce from vegetables to frog and buffalo. The menu will be seasonal, in line with traditional Buddhist beliefs, with a focus on ancient recipes sourced from old records, favorites such as tom yam and pad Thai, innovative dishes making use of modern techniques and what they are calling "Thai-pas," a local take on tapas. Sukhumvit Soi 31, Yeak 4.

The Lab

When we heard the inventive Chef Gaggan was opening a bar, we knew we’d be in for something special. As the name suggests, it will house all sorts of lab gear to prepare infused liquors and cask-aged cocktails. Your table will be the scene for the mixologists to create tailor-made drinks right in front of you or you can try the cocktail tasting menu that Chef Gaggan claims is ideal for those after a little adventure. Scheduled to open sometime in the third quarter in the same neighborhood (Langsuan) as the restaurant.

Japanese Restaurant by Tenyuu Grand

Tenyuu Grand’s menu reads like classic Japanese—all sushi and rolls, but it’s the new and exciting ingredients that keep the crowds coming back. This year, its food-obsessed owner Chavayos Rattakul will join with other new restaurants in EmQuartier (see page 7), putting more focus on modern food presentation, a trendy vibe and the use of lesser known ingredients such as Mangalitz pork from Hungary. Scheduled to open in the third quarter of the year.

Tequila Bar by Roast

The team behind Roast will soon open a tequila bar in the same community mall, Seenspace. The food will take its cues from Mexican favorites with some tweaking for the Thai palate. Expect local produce, homegrown herbs and adaptations, such as ox cheek in the tacos. The tequila list, meanwhile, will be imported from all over the world. They tell us it should be open by March, but we’ll have to wait longer for their community mall project, The Commons, a place where you’ll find quality products, some from the regular vendors at the city's farmer’s market. That’s set to open in 2015. On top of that, they’ll also have a new branch of Roast in EmQuartier promising a bigger space and an outdoor area. 

WHAT WE WANT

 

Small, Casual Restaurants Doing Great Food

The city’s new crop of talented chefs still seem to prefer doing their thing in swanky venues. In fact, we’ve seen fewer exciting pop-ups of late, compared to the days when Paolo Vitaletti (now at Appia) and Jess Barnes (now at Opposite) were introducing themselves to Bangkok through booked-out events at Opposite (which was then an event space, not a restaurant). We like scrappy and tiny. And we want more great food in places with  real character.

 

 

Artisanal Thai Food Stars 

Let’s hand it to Europeans like Joe Sloane (Sloane’s Sausages) and Jean Philippe Arnaud Landry (Maison Jean-Philippe) for launching quality artisanal food brands that have slowly taken over every chic new restaurant or trendy farmer’s market. But aside from Bo (Bo.lan), isn’t it time that Bangkok’s artisanal food scene had more locals doing lovingly handcrafted food that stands out from the ordinary stuff available at a fresh market. Hipster green curry paste, anyone?

PROPERTIES

Dean and Deluca 

Already present at MahaNakhon at Chong Nonsi, Dean and Deluca Thailand is set to open its latest and biggest flagship retail market store on the same premises. The café is expected to be the largest Dean and Deluca in Asia, and the third largest in the world, occupying over 800 sq meters. It will offer three different “eat in” concepts: an espresso bar, a pizza counter and a table service restaurant with wine bar—all, of course, serving up New York’s favorite gourmet delights. One innovative program they are working on is a daily cooking show. www.facebook.com/ddbkk. Other restaurants set for MahaNakhon are even more exciting, with the list including the Michelin-star chef associated Le Salon de The de Joel Robuchon.

Central Embassy 

Central Embassy is the latest development project from the Central Group. Scheduled to open in March, it will house high-end street fashion and lifestyle products. The building’s modern design will highlight curves and textures over a total of 37 floors, eight of which will be dedicated to retail, with the rest being part of a six-star hotel, the Park Hyatt, to be opened in 2014. Think CentralWorld with higher-end brands and more emphasis on deconstructionist architectural design. Among the big names, American brand Ralph Lauren will open a two-story flagship store (see below). Right now, construction is almost completed with most of the building’s retail space already booked. Next to Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-3600. BTS Chidlom or Ploenchit. www.centralembassy.com

MahaNakhon

Soon to be the city’s highest landmark, the 314-meter-tall Mahanakhon Hotel & Residence will stand 77 stories high and cover 14,569 square meters split between apartments, retail space, an outdoor plaza and luxury serviced residences by The Ritz-Carlton Residences. The building has a direct link to BTS Chongnonsi, with residences from two to five bedrooms. Other facilities include a three-floor terrace bar, restaurants, cafes, a 24-hour marketplace, private dining facilities, and a rooftop outdoor bar with a 360-degree view. Rooms are B250,000 per sq meter. Scheduled to open beginning of the year for Dean and Deluca. 92 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Rd., 02-234-1414. www.maha-nakhon.com

Siam Square One 

As you'll have spotted from the BTS, the area opposite Siam Paragon will soon be transformed into another shopping mall known as Siam Square One. The seven-story mall will look to embody the concept of a shopping street combining fashion, dining, lifestyle and digital products. With a budget of B1.8 billion, the 13,525-square-meter venue will also comprise 270 parking spots and a rooftop garden. The interior will follow the lead of the contemporary exterior, which will highlight the building’s dimensions with a multitude of massive blocks. Scheduled to open by the end of this year. Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-255-9999. 

Ralph Lauren

Central Embassy has already confirmed one major brand arrival, with the news that preppy US brand Ralph Lauren, will have a two-story flagship store inside the mall. Expect all the signature fragrances, accessories, menswear and women’s wear you'd find in the original store.

EmQuartier

Sat directly opposite from Emporium, this is another project developed by The Mall group. Said to open by the end of 2014, the high-end shopping mall will also include the Bhiraj Tower, a 45-story office tower developed by the Bhiraj Buri Group. The construction is said to be 60-70% complete, and the mall will eventually feature a whopping 250,000 sq meters of retail space. Opposite The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Phromphong.

California Modern Market

This project on Ratchaphruek Road covers an area of over 10 hectares. The place is designed to imitate a California-style setting with palm trees and fountains, and will feature a modern market divided into nine zones with shops and restaurants aiming to attract families from the nearby residential area. Ratchaphruek Rd., 083-042-9536.

WHAT WE WANT

 

Indoor-Outdoor Living

Popular community malls like K Village or Rainhill have proved that we can actually survive in a non-air-con environment for a few minutes at a time, provided there’s shade and good air circulation. We hope upcoming malls will offer more of that, as opposed to the giant energy-guzzling behemoth alternatives. Moreover, we wish this trend would catch on with condos, which continue to pair 30 stories of apartments with only a tiny rooftop terrace as a nod to greenery.

Recycling Old Buildings

Bangkok might not have the best track record for preservation but we think we’re at a crucial time. Whole swathes of the city are currently being consumed by major developments, with little or no care for what was there before. We hope that people start taking a reality check on the genuine benefits of repurposing existing spaces. Quick bucks are no trade-off for decades of character and a little hard work.

MUSIC

Avril Lavigne 

The pop-punk princess will return to Bangkok in support of her fifth studio album. Feb 11 is the date, Impact Arena Muangthong Thani the venue. Expect all the hits like “My Happy Ending,” “Sk8ter Boi,” and “Complicated,” as well as newer releases like “Let Me Go” and “Here’s To Never Growing Up.” However, some might be more interested in whether she’ll bw bringing along her husband, Nickelback frontman Chad Kroeger. Tickets are B1,000-4,500 from Thaiticketmajor.

Bruno Mars

Just one month later, the same venue will welcome American chart-topper Bruno Mars as part of his Moonshine Jungle Tour, on Mar 20. The guy who famously doesn’t feel like doing anything may be a bit late coming to our shores, with this world tour meant to be in support of his second studio album, Unorthodox Jukebox, released way back in 2012.

Thirty Second to Mars

Maybe you like your pop-rock a tiny bit harder or maybe you just like watching Jared Leto jump around on stage. Either way, you’ll be pleased to note that the critically praised former actor is bringing his rather less acclaimed (but much-loved) band to Bangkok to celebrate their fourth studio album Love, Lust, Faith and Dreams. Thai fans mark the date, Apr 5, venue TBA.

Silverlake Music Festival

You’ll have to leave town for the biggest rock concert, though. Pattaya will be the scene of the second rock-loving Silverlake Music Festival, set to return on Mar 1. The festival will be headlined by Trent Reznor’s industrial rockers Nine Inch Nails as they continue to tour their new album Hesitation Marks. They’ll be supported by Swedish garage rockers The Hives, English indie band The Foals, and other notable inter acts like The Used, Taking Back Sunday, and Rebelution.  

Swim Deep

To mark the welcome reopening of Sonic Ekkamai, long-time indie organizer Dudesweet have already announced they’ll be bringing over fast-rising British indie pop band Swim Deep to Bangkok on Feb 7. There’s still not much information out yet, but we suggest you prepare yourself by checking out the band’s debut album, Where the Heaven Are We.

Popscene Pop-ups

The indie crew Popscene will follow up on a big 2013 by welcoming more international acts on a regular basis, kicking off on Jan 25 at Cosmic Café with provocative rapper Heems (USA) who will share the stage with Despot (USA), and other yet tbc acts. Two weeks later, Feb 7, will see a gig by three bands Unicorn Domination (USA), Bloodsugar Politik (Burma) and locals Deadtown Trash. 

Unknown Mortal Orchestra

Next year is shaping up rather nicely for indie tragics. Hot organizer Have You Heard? will start the year by bringing over another hipster-approved indie act, American/New Zealand psych-rock trio, Unknown Mortal Orchestra, to perform live at Mongkol Studio RCA on Jan 22. Opening acts include two local talents, post-rockers Desktop Error and Two Million Thanks.

WHAT WE WANT

 

More Diversity

The music scene has developed incredibly in the last few years, with more and more international acts gracing our city, and it seems we’re getting a more diverse set of venues, too. There was a time when it felt like almost every week we ended up at Cosmic Café or Sonic Ekkamai. That’s not to detract from both venue’s great work but since the latter closed for renovations we’ve seen a lot of interesting venues really step up. 2013 saw the rise of small joints like Harmonica, SOL Space, Fatty’s Diner and Playyard all hosting a diverse set of acts. Cafes-cum-bars Jam and WTF Gallery have also got in on the action, opening their doors to more experimental artists, and we’re excited about the prospect of more indie venues bringing together the disciplines of music and art.

More Festivals

While Silverlake Music Festival looms large on the horizon in March, Thailand still lags behind regional neighbors when it comes to cool music fests. Hipsters are still forced to lay down top dollar to fly out to Hong Kong and Singapore for the likes of Clockenflap and Laneway, but we can’t help but think that that money could be better spent here, where the demand for top international acts is now really bubbling over. 

FILM

The Legend of King Naresuan Part V

After a year's break, the epic film series written and directed by Prince Chatrichalerm Yukol is set to flirt once more with commercial success. Boasting the same all-star cast of Chatchai Plengpanich, Intira Jaroenpura, Taksaorn Paksukcharern and Wanchana Sawatdee, who plays the king, the fifth episode of the biographical historical drama will narrate the incidents after King Naresuan led a group of Thai people to escape from Burma and announced freedom from Burmese rule. The historic elephant battle looks likely to be among the set-piece highlights.

Teacher’s Diary.

The new romance from big film house GTH looks set to make headlines this year as it features two huge Thai showbiz names, Ploy Chermarn Boonyasak and pop star Bie Sukrit Wisetkaew making his film debut. Directed by Ton Nithiwat Tharathorn (Fanchan and Season Change), it will see the two leads portray the romance between two teachers set against a backdrop of academia. The actual storyline has yet to be revealed, but given it’s GTH, we’re expecting another feel-good blockbuster.  

Rarng (The Parallel) 

We don’t know what’s going on behind the scenes at production company Golden A, but it’s a little strange to note that Rarng, a film that director Pharm Rangsi (Pawnshop) previously told us was to be his next release is about to come out credited to Bhana Worawaranyoo (Sam Chook and Bangrajun 2). Starring Paula Taylor, the horror set to be screened this January tells the story of a lady who adopts a little girl whose mother died in front of her and whose favorite doll has somehow taken on her mother’s spirit. 

Sayong Songbuntud (Horror in Two Lines)

Director Parm Rangsi has founded his own production house Parmpicture, which will launch its first ghost film this year, too. Parm’s new flick is called Sayong Songbuntud or Horror in Two Lines (whether they’re parallel or not, we do not know) and follows a group of teenagers who find themselves placed under a deadly curse after meddling with an ancient talisman. While we’re sure the cinematography will be pleasing on the eye, we can only hope that Pharm has learned from Pawnshop that character development and narrative prowess have their place 

Khun Phan

This biopic from Sahamongkol Film is directed by Kongkiat Khomesiri whose previous flicks include Cheun, Chaiya and Anthapan. It will tell the story of Khun Phantharak Rajjadej of Nakhonsrithammaraj, whose life is nothing short of fantasy folklore. Khun Phantharak was a police officer who made his name by wiping out all the infamous criminals in the Southern provinces in the 1920s. But it wasn’t solely what he did, but how, that really made him stand out; Khun Phantharak is said to have used magic to prevail over the bad guys. If the tale isn’t exciting enough, though, the cast comprising Krisada Sukosol (Noi Pru), Chupong Changprung and Ananda Everingham, who plays the legendary cop, should get you going.

WHAT WE WANT

Indie Appreciation

Last year might have been a watershed one for the Thai indie film industry, judging by the long queues outside House RCA for Nawapol’s Mary is Happy, Mary is Happy. But we’d still like to see more interesting homegrown films like Karaoke Girl and The Isthmus, which both attracted a lot of attention abroad, appearing at the International Film Festival Rotterdam and Busan International Film Festival, get a proper extended screening here in Bangkok, so that they can actually reach the wider audience they deserve.  

 

 

Big Budget, Big Brains

As for mainstream pictures, it’s probably too much to ask for some originality, but surely a little more creativity isn’t out of the question. A year of films about teens battling ghosts (Mor Hok Tub Ha Pak Mhar Ta Pee, Hachima Project) and formulaic rom-coms (Fud Jung To, Love Syndrome and Love in the Rain), is, well, a little boring. Also, we think we can speak for all cinema-goers in hoping that the big production houses finally grow the balls to do away with ugly and obvious product placements once and for all. 

MISC

Digital TV

After hearing about digital TV for ages, it’s actually happening this year. After the license auction last December, the National Broadcasting and Telecommunications Commission (NBTC) expects digital broadcasts to start this February. That seems optimistic but the new era will offer us up to 48 channels with better picture and sound quality, more choices, and interactive features. It's said there’ll be 12 community, 12 public, and 20 commercial channels. The remaining four slots will be dedicated to HDTV and there are more to come. 

extension of BTS Sukhumvit Line from Mo Chit to Khu Khot

The political breakdown may have stalled many mega railroad projects, but not the approved B58,590-million green line extension which will continue as planned, according to Chula Sukmanop, Director of the Office of Transport and Traffic Policy and Planning. The 19km rail line will run along Vibhavadi-Rangsit Road, from BTS Mochit to Khu Kot, with the main stops including Saphan Mai, Kasetsart University, and one in front of Don Muang Airport. The construction is scheduled to start in mid-2014, but it’s not until 2018 that we can hop on. So why talk about it now? Well, as construction taking place along one of the most traveled roads in Bangkok, including one platform at the ever-hectic Lad Phrao, we think everyone should prepare for a year-long traffic nightmare. 

WHAT WE WANT

Good Fashion Bloggers

 

Although Thailand has a vibrant beauty blogging society, with big names like Pearypie and Momay Pa Plern exhibiting their talents in hiding blemishes and changing your bone structure (no surgery needed), it is still lacking bloggers producing quality content for fashion. Yeah, we do have mepanya.blogspot.com but that’s about it. More fashion bloggers would go a long way to driving our local scene forward, including blow-by-blow accounts of fashion shows, designer interviews and the occasional “real-world” fashion shoot. Oh and, dear aspiring fashion bloggers, don’t take your cues from Thailand’s makeup gurus, who endlessly, shamelessly and unimaginatively promote brands just to make a quick buck.

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Best known for his improvisational plays Therapy and Adoption and his role in last year’s film Only God Forgives, Nophand Boonyai now introduces his new work Utopian Malady (Jan 10-13, 16-20). Coinciding with the political unease on the streets of Bangkok, the play follows three writers who are abducted to help rescue their country’s troubled prime minister from a crisis. Nophand chats with BK about the meaning of his new play and our present state of false reality.

How did you come up with the idea for this play?

A few years back I came across this idea about writers who are experts at writing things that are easy and stupid. I call them hamburger writers because what they produce has a similar quality to junk food. It’s easy to consume, commercial and pleasing, like a soap opera. Through the work of these creatives and spin doctors, we’re close to living in a world of pure manipulation. They create images out of nothing. It’s all make believe. One big example was the Thatcher government’s “Labor Isn’t Working” campaign in the UK. In the end, it was the Conservatives who caused the problems. That just sums up how a picture can take hold in the minds of those who are so willing to believe. And, shockingly, how people can believe in something based on nothing. These thoughts come together in this play within a simulated situation taking place in Thailand, where three writers are kidnapped to help fix a problem for the prime minister.

What can we read into the name Utopian Malady?

Utopia is a term that most people are familiar with. As we are all aware, though, there’s no such thing as a perfect world—but some of us refuse to accept that. Many of us want to live in a pleasant world, yet everyone’s definition of that is not the same. It’s a disease—transmittable or not, I’m not sure—where you find yourself losing sense of what is real and what is not because of all the images and ideas put forward by the media, news and spin doctors. The Bangkok Post recently published a headline citing Suthep’s offer of a “utopian” plan. That’s amusing. Politicians relentlessly try to sell the public a utopia that doesn’t exist.

Politics have been the same over the past 40-50 years. Things change, of course, but it’s the same old game.

What can we expect?

It’s a challenge to keep things interesting in this play. As everyone now consumes information and appreciates performances from around the world, you really need to offer something weird and fierce in order to gain attention. What Utopian Malady has to offer is a seat on a rollercoaster. You can feel the dynamic drive. It drives forward. You don’t know exactly when it’s going to turn or where you’re going. That’s what you get, a certain uncertainty.

So, what is the message it tries to deliver?

It is to question the world we see and what we perceive as the truth. I believe there’s always something or someone behind what we deem to be reality. It’s like we cannot really believe in anything anymore. Nothing is sacred. There’s this saying by [American physicist and philosopher] Victor J. Stenger: “Science flies you to the moon. Religion flies you into buildings.” This play emphasizes how people choose to hold onto ideas that have been proved false—to some people, science and reasoning mean nothing.

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