A new bar and restaurant are opening in a fancy hotel. Trays of cocktails are whizzing about. A delicious buffet awaits as uniformed public relations officers smile and greet “distinguished members of the press.” Who else is on the guest list? Bloggers of course, the new tastemakers when it comes to Bangkok’s wining and dining scene. But just as they gain respectability, bloggers could be on the fast track to becoming “old media.” Bangkok is the world’s number one city in terms of Facebook users—and one of the most serious when it comes to food. Put the two together and you have a potent crowdsourcing combination that could knock out both print and bloggers. As user-generated websites like OpenRice.com and Wongnai.com gain followers, we speak to the old new media and the new new media on the shifting digital food divide.

Toothless Critics

Print media reviews in Bangkok have never had quite the same aura as in other world capitals. Here, reviews appearing in print are either for newly-opened venues or promotional stunts (visiting chefs, new menus, etc.) at five-star hotels. They’re always hosted by the owner or public relations person, who lavishes attention on the writer, and the resulting critique is always positive. Even respected food writers like M.L. Tanudsri and his family avoid criticism, preferring to inspire and educate instead.This dearth of useful food reviews paved the way for bloggers to fill the gap—but even they have been reluctant to slam venues.

“I don’t usually write negative reviews. I used to think that if the restaurants are not good enough, I should tell people. But then, at the end, some customers always go to those restaurants I don’t like. So I think it’s very subjective and really up to the individual. We never know if we visit a restaurant on its bad day or not. So if I don’t think it’s good, I wouldn’t write about it at all,” says Sirin Wongpanit, a freelance writer for The Nation, Elle Decoration and Circle Publishing who also blogs at www.ohsirin.com.

“Food is one of the most difficult things to review since whether or not something is delicious is so subjective,” says Daneeya Bunnag, who blogs at mysousvidelife.wordpress.com. Pete Oh, of bangkokburgerblog.com, confirms that reviewers rarely take risks: “Most are in the middle of the road. Especially for publications, it could be bad for their business. You have to draw the line between good and bad places but sometimes people are a little sensitive about places they like. But my reviews aren’t meant to be mean. I don’t want to hurt any business and I always say that it’s really subjective. Everyone is opinionated about something and disagreement is fine.”

Ichiro Phongthon, of phongthon.blogspot.com warns of the risks of writing bad reviews, too. “A negative review is one thing, but slamming a venue or chef could damage your credibility,” he says, although he does still regularly write negative reviews.

Turning Tables

Ironically, bloggers are now falling back on the same arguments print media once used to defend against bloggers, to defend themselves against the new wave of food critics: the crowds powering user-generated websites like OpenRice.com and Wongnai.com. In short, bloggers consider themselves more professional, while the “crowds” really don’t know what they’re talking about.

“Being a good food reviewer takes lots of eating experiences. You have to know what is really delicious and what cuisines you’re not familiar with,” says Sirin. “My style of writing is the result of the information that I’ve been accumulating all my life. But when I check out crowd-sourced reviews, it’s quite hard to get the real substance from what they’re writing”.

As for Ishiro, he finds that crowd-sourced reviews can be excessive in their negativity: “Today, you can see it in a lot of forums, like Pantip. It’s not really civilized sometimes.”

For Daneeya, of blog My Sous-Vide Life, the print-blog rapprochement is further accelerated by the growing number of bloggers getting paid and entering traditional media. “I don’t really know where to draw the line,” she says. “But the clear difference between professionals and amateurs lies in the knowledge and experience, be it in the traditional or social media fields,” says Daneeya. Khetsirin Pholdhampa, a food writer at The Nation, uses the same argument to defend against the social media hordes: “Everybody can write. But we tell a better story in print, one that is fair, balanced and comprehensive. We’re a reliable source of information.”

Feeding the Masses

Whether bloggers will become more professional, or just be swept away by the social media tidal wave, crowd-sourcing is here to stay. Yod Chinsupakul, co-founder of Wongnai.com, a user-generated review guide, says his users grew from 50,000 in 2011 to 100,000 this year. “Social media has brought more channels for people to speak up. You might have just told your friends in the past that this restaurant is good or bad, but today, sites and apps like Facebook, Wongnai, Pantip and blogs allow you to reach a broader audience.”

Wongnai is about to be joined by another player. Openrice.com launched in Thailand a few months ago, and all set for its official debut. Managing Director Satinee Mokaves says, “Bangkokians’ lifestyles are changing because with mobile devices, whatever they do, they will share it online.”

Even crowd-sourced websites are struggling with Thailand’s reluctance to write useful reviews, though. “Openrice in Hong Kong is a very strong institution. We have no competitor there and it seems to be part of their life to review restaurants. I’ll have to say that the Thai character is very different. [Thais] just post photos, as a kind of way to show off, and it’s really difficult to change that attitude.” While she tries to encourage people to be more opinionated, she also believes it will take time to change the mentality: “It’s going to be better with the new generation. They’ll have been exposed to more things and will be able to share something more critical and not just post photos.”

Ichiro concurs. “All they [reviewers on crowdsourced websites] write is ‘Oh, it’s really good. We licked our plates clean.’ And then top it off with loads of photos,” he says. OpenRice’s Satinee adds, “It’s not easy to get them to write something [critical] unless they’re really pissed off, which usually ends up being too personal.”
Bangkok Burger Blog’s Pete Oh doesn’t mind the competition or lack of professionalism, though. “It’s just giving people more rounded perspectives on particular restaurants. But it’s through the eyes of the readers. I don’t think blogs or websites are taking away from each other’s readerships.”

Even Wongnai co-founder Yod has advice for those using his website: “Whatever you read, you need to think critically and use your judgment. Think carefully and look carefully—like on our website, you’ll see many eateries have got four or five stars, but you need to look at the details, not just the surface.”

The Best Food and Restaurant Blogs in Bangkok

Bake Ministry

When it comes to cupcake presentation, the three sibling owners behind this bakery get it just right (their Facebook page really is a salivating sight). Thankfully, the flavors are pretty spot on too. The creatively designed cupcakes (9 pieces for B1,350) come with all sorts of colorful frosting and can be customized to your every whim, making them a real talking point. The menu is not limited to cupcakes, but also covers flour cakes, cheesecakes, pies, cookies, and macarons. Their popular Instagram (@bakeminister) offers a tantalizing taste of what’s available.
ow.ly/bwbtA. Delivery charge starts from B100. Order 3 days in advance.

Radi

Suparadi “Fin” Siwapornpitak, the owner of Radi, got her start in the online food biz through her Finny the Chef Facebook page where she posts step-by-step cooking videos. There she provides a link to her online store, which has been growing steadily in popularity over the past few years to the point that she opened a walk-in shop a month ago. The substantial menu includes such specialties as the mini-cupcakes (B240) that can be finished in four bites, giving you the chance to taste as many varieties as possible. Try the Donkey Kong (banana chocolate cupcake with chocolate fudge frosting and topped with milk chocolate) or others with fillings she claims can’t be found elsewhere.
ow.ly/bwbre. Minimum purchase of B1,000 for delivery. Order 2 days in advance.

CakeLicious

At first it can be hard to tell if the objects posted on their Facebook page are in fact cakes, so weird and wonderful are the designs. Recent posts show everything from an edible DSLR and a Black Bentley to Iron Man and a latex-clad Lady Gaga (well, she did always say that her Christmas tree is delicious). Simply email them with your idea or inquiry and they can sculpt it for you (B1,800 for 1 lbs). But don’t blame us if, after all that, you can’t bring yourself to eat the mini-masterpiece.
ow.ly/bwbvm. Delivery charge starts from B100. Order 3-5 days in advance.

Sweet Obsession

The story behind this “couture” cake design studio goes that the owner loved to bake so much that she quit her job as an auditor to start taking cooking classes at Le Cordon Bleu. Now she puts the techniques she learned towards fashioning one-of-a-kind treats using her own recipes and ingredients she says are mainly imported from France. Here, too, things can get pretty sculptural—think cakes shaped like Louis Vuitton bags and rustic wooden style chess boards. She recommends the macarons (B360 for 9 pieces) which come in different flavors week-by-week, from salted butter popcorn to chocolate caramel and dark chocolate with ginger.
ow.ly/bwbGL. Delivery charge starts from B50. Order 3 days in advance for macarons and 7 days in advance for figurine cakes.

Puroii’s Bakery

Japanese-style cakes have taken Bangkok by storm over the last few years. The owner of this homemade bakery started her training in Japan then picked up a few more techniques from Le Cordon Bleu. Fittingly, she told us that her main inspiration comes from Japan with a focus on high-quality ingredients, low sugar and light texture. She recommends the mixed fruit shortcake (B105), flourless chocolate cake (B105) and vanilla crepe cake (B115).
ow.ly/bwc0v. Minimum order of 4 pieces with delivery charge of B40. Order 3 days in advance.

You’ve probably tried molecular gastronomy, with its flavored foams and bead-shaped jellies, but how about infusing your cocktails with a little quaffable chemistry? The trend, although a few years old worldwide, is just starting to pick up real steam in Bangkok—and mixologists are already doubting its future.

W XYZ Bar is one of a new breed of places that apply scientific smoke and mirrors, not to your food but your drinks, all in the name of molecular mixology. Perhaps Bangkok’s first dedicated molecular cocktail bar, it’s manned by the youthful Passapong Phetpradit who designs the drinks himself. His signature drink, Heaven on Earth, is served in a Champagne flute, smoking like a wizard’s potion. It’s served with a strawberry coated in candy that pops in your mouth. Bite into the strawberry, sip and let your senses go into overload.

“Science brings something new to cocktails,” says Passapong. “For me, a cocktail is like a painting and molecular mixology just gives another dimension to the art. Molecular techniques interact with all five of our senses.”

These high-wire acts come with more issues than just fixing a decent martini, though. Even pros like Karn Liangsrisuk, who took second place in the 2012 Bacardi Bartending Contest representing the Shangri La Hotel and reached the top 10 contestants in the Diageo Reserve World Class Thailand 2011, would rather avoid them altogether.

“I like my cocktails to be simple. Molecular cocktails are too strong and too scientific for me,” he says. “The idea of bringing in the science just seems to eliminate the classic elements and charm of every ingredient. Change is good but molecular mixology requires such precise measures and is very technical—it’s just not for me.”
Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn, the man behind the cocktails at Roof by Muse Thonglor, thinks molecular cocktails are fun, but mostly just a question of appearances.

“Molecular mixology provides a wealth of options when it comes to drink presentation. But it’s probably just another fad. How long it stays around depends on how well mixologists can keep pushing the boundaries without losing the original character of a particular cocktail,” Ronnaporn says. “It’s not just about adopting new techniques. You have to make things more delicious.”

Even Passapong, of W XYZ, agrees it will be challenging to keep people hooked. “Molecular mixology is just like any other trend. It won’t stay fashionable without constant reinvention. So you have to keep striving for more,” he says.

Ronnaporn sees the future in using unique ingredients that haven’t been seen in cocktails before, like Indian gooseberry cough medicine. Karn, too, is focusing on flavor. His recipes for restaurants like Whale’s Belly, Bouchot and The Local use ingredients like safflower and the pungent sator bean. He’s also been keeping an eye on the worldwide mixology trends replacing molecular techniques.

“Right now,” he says, “it’s all about barrel aged-cocktails and I’ve been running around Bangkok in search of woods that will give different notes and flavors.”

Whatever comes next, barmen are clearly going to stay in the spotlight, as their research and hard work is the one thing that will never get tired. “Sometimes even having the finest ingredients doesn’t mean something will work. You’ve got to keep learning. Study others but don’t copy, as trends always come and go,”
says Karn.

Expert Advice: Drinks that Can’t Go (Too) Wrong

Passapong Phetpradit

Manager on Duty at W XYZ Bar

“I’ll admit that I don’t really like drinking cocktails that often, but if I find myself at an awful bar then gin and tonic, vodka with Kahlua, or rum and coke are all at the top of my list.”

Karn Liangsrisuk

Escapade Burgers & Shakes co-owner

“Beer is the safest option, but if you want to look cool then maybe ask the bartender to drop some cranberry juice in vodka.”

Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn

Business Development Director and Mixologist at Maven Company

“I’d say a Mai Tai is the safest but if that’s not your thing, take a look at the liquor shelf. Maybe go for something like Malibu with pineapple juice. You’ll probably end up crying about the tiny amount of alcohol in your drink, anyway.”

Essentials

W XYZ Bar Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000. Open Sun-Wed 12pm-midnight; Thu-Sat 12pm-2am
Escapade Burgers & Shakes, 112 Phra Artit Rd., 081-406-3773.  Open daily 11am-midnight
Roof by Muse, 159/8 Thonglor Soi 10, 089-988-5995. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am