Charoenkrung Road's classic eateries, retro shops and arty new hangouts
The street hits 150 years old this year, so we head back to discover the best street food, hip new cafes and edgy galleries in this historic hood.
10 years ago
The Best Cafes, Restaurants, Food Stalls and Shops of Bangkok's Chinatown
Retro shops
Mohamad
There aren’t too many places in Bangkok like Mohamed. From the outside, it might look like a bit of a mess, with its glass cabinets and shelves spilling over with products, but this is part of the charm. Open for 87 years, Mohamad sells pens and paper imported from Europe. These include ink pens from the likes of Pelikan, Venus and Schaffer, mostly from the 70s and 80s, and stationery from the 50s and 60s. Drawing paper starts from B20 and pens from B1,000. If you’re a collector, you might want to drop by regularly, as the shop carries many rare models which aren’t easy to track down.
60 Charoenkrung Rd. (near Tripetch Rd.), 089-689-6445. Open daily 2-5pm, do give the owner a call if the shop is empty.
Tang Siang Thai
At first glance, this dark, quiet shophouse comes across as little more than a typical grandfather’s home, but once inside you’ll realize why Tang Siang Thai is a hidden gem for record collectors. Countless vinyl records line the walls, yet the place is empty except for the diehard fans of 60s and 70s music stuck for hours leafing through everything from Abba albums to the soundtracks to Gone With the Wind and The Sound of Music. Records start from B100-3,000, and they also have record players, which sell out rather quickly, from B4,000-B10,000.
253-255 Charoenkrung Rd. (in front of Soi 11), 02-221-8732. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm.
Theera Music
Theera Music was one of the first music stores to open in Verng Nakon Kasem, the area much-loved by Bangkok sound-makers. Open for over 90 years, the shop is now run by the fourth generation of the same family. Here, the focus is on guitars, keyboards and drums, as well as other instruments. Although the inside has seen a revamp, the vibe remains the same: a warm little sanctuary for musicians of all levels. Expect renowned names like Fender, Gibson and Roland, ranging from B500-300,000.
100-108 Charoenkrung Rd, Soi Verng Nakon Kasem, 02-224-8821. Open Mon-Sat 8:30am-5:30pm.
Best Eats
Ar Ou
Even though the flavors might have faded a bit over the years, Ar Ou still offers very comforting Thai and Chinese dishes. The Chinese options are well-balanced, but it’s the Thai choices like pad kraprao that are most flavorful. Do try the popular pad mhee Hong Kong (stir-fried noodles with shrimps, from B80) and delicious kraproa pla pad haeng (stir-fried fish maw, from B150), which tastes very fresh and well-balanced. The closing time really depends on their stock, so you’d better call before making a visit. There’s only one main person who does all the cooking, too, so be prepared for a wait.
72/4 Charoenkrung Rd. (near Ramada Hotel), 084-006-6142, 085-912-6409, 02-673-1602. Open daily 6-11pm.
Boonsub
Here on Charoenkrung, the legendary Thai treat of mango and sticky rice can be found at Boonsub, which has been a local favorite for more than 70 years. The mango (its price depends on the market, khao niew is B140 for a kg) is available only in the summer, but you can always try other yummy desserts, such as the khao niew sangkaya (sticky rice topped with Thai custard, B25).
1478 Charoenkrung Rd. across from Top Charoen Optical, 02-234-4086. Open daily 8am-6:30pm.
El Chiringuito
This old shophouse in Yaowarat has been renovated into a tapas bar. Just properly opened at the start of February, the new venue boasts a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. Owned by Supapron Sae, who lived in Spain for six years, the kitchen rolls out brief and small dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet, B220), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches). Do check their opening times as they are not set in stone (they're currently closed till May).
221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. 086-340-4791. www.facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok.
Glur
Glur Bangkok is a convivial hostel and 24-hour café and bar all wrapped in one. On the hostel side of things, there are three rooms (eight beds each) with prices starting from B360/bed. But what we’re really drawn to is the little garden out front and the café on the first floor, where you can order all-day breakfast, drip coffee and Thai favorites during the day or chillout come nighttime with a bottle of Beerlao (B110) or one of the house cocktails (B180). There’s free Wi-Fi, too.
45 Charoenkrung Soi 50, 02-630-5595. www.facebook.com/glurbangkok. Open daily 24 hours.
Hor Khao Tom Pla
The owner of Hor Khao Tom Pla (aka Khao Tom Gim Po), Krit Panyawisutthikul, told us that he got his recipe from his father and that it’s been in the family for more than 70 years. The soup might not be as densely flavored as others, but the fish (tao toey, seabass, and grouper) are certainly well selected and the flavorful sauce takes it to a whole new level. The stock is made from pork bone, fish and shrimp head resulting in a delicious natural sweetness with no added MSG. Be prepared to battle it out for a parking spot with the endless stream of Mercedes dropping off hisos in the know to eat here.
1897 Charoenkrung Soi 73, 02-675-2598, 084-010-3424. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
Jae Noi
Jae Noi sells deep-fried slices of bananas, sweet potatoes and taro at her small stall. Take a friend with you because there is usually a fairly long queue for her treats, but trust us, it’s worth the wait. The fried bananas mixed with coconut (B20 for a bag) are the perfect combination of outer crispiness and a very tender inside as she is very picky about using great-quality gluay nam-wa (banana) only. Never, ever take this home—you need to eat it right away for the tastiest results.
In front of Soi Sriwiang, 085-359-6196. Open Tue-Sun 9am-7pm.
Joke Prince
Serving up traditional bowls of piping-hot rice porridge (B30), this legendary stall has sat down a tiny soi for more than 40 years. The dish is full-bodied with a natural and smoky flavor you only get from a charcoal stove.
1391 Charoenkrung Rd. (across from Robinson Bangrak), 02-234-9407. Open daily 6am-12pm and 5-9pm.
Kai Ping
Follow the smoke and you'll meet the friendly lady who whips up some of the best gai ping (chicken skewer in Thai style) in the city. The chicken is marinated with seasonings which create a lovely aroma, while the meat is juicy. And once you try the delicious nam jim (dipping sauce), you might need to order more sticky rice.
In front of Charoenkrung Soi 103/1, 080-595-8449. Open daily 5-7pm.
Khao Mok Kai
Right in front of Charoenkrung Hospital, this no-name stall is famous among locals who throng here for the tender and just-greasy-enough khao mok gai (biryani rice with chicken in Thai style, B50). Run by a Muslim-Thai family, this eatery also offers a fantastic khao mok pae (biryani rice with goat meat, B130),but they usually run out after lunch.
In front of Charoenkrung Hospital, 02-873-4198. Open daily 10:30am-3pm.
Lord Chong Singapore
It would simply be wrong not to mention the lord chong Singapore (noodles in coconut milk) available at this shop house on Sam Yaek Moh Mee. The legendary spot has been selling this treat for more than 50 years and the dish is starting to become rare to find in Thailand. The texture is not like typical lord chong—more chewy and more elastic. If you're really hungry, the place also sells decent savory noodles.
680-682 Charoenkrung Rd. (Sam Yaek Moh Mee). 02-215-5794. Open daily 11am-9pm.
Khao Tom Kradook Moo
A few steps past the lord chong stall is this khao tom kradook moo (soft-boiled rice with baby back ribs) stall. Open almost 50 years now, the owners really do know how to make a delicious stock from good-quality pork ribs, all cooked over a charcoal stove. Do call before you visit to check on availability—this comforting dish disappears quick.
Sam Yaek Moh Mee, 084-1248787. Open daily 10:30am-9pm (except Buddist holidays).
Mazzaro
The gray paneling, dark tile floors and colorful paintings in this dimly-lit restaurant offer such a cozy space that it’s always packed with foreigners—usually guests from the hotels nearby. The menu is mainly Thai and Italian, such as pizza margheritta (B240) or spaghetti with salted mackerel (B220). The food is not stellar but the kitchen does use good-quality ingredients. Add in drinks like Singha (B120) and Heineken (B140) and Mazzaro makes for a low-key hangout in a quieter area of Bangkok.
11/2 Charoenkrung Soi 42/1, 02-235-3626. www.mazzarobkk.com. Open daily 11am-11pm.
On Lok Yun
Forget Starbucks or Dean & Deluca, locals have been coming to chat over coffee at On Lock Yun for over 80 years. With its inconspicuous façade, this cozy spot has forged a strong following who come for a cup of joe and Thai-style American breakfast, and stick around for the old-world atmosphere. The no-frills décor only adds to the charm, with wooden cabinets filled with tins of Milo from the 80s and all manner of condiments. Drinks like coffee and milk start from B20 and the American breakfast from B40. You don’t get more comforting than this.
72 Charoenkrung Rd. (close to Sala Chalermkrung), 02-233-9621. Open daily from 6am-4pm.
Prajak
Prajak Ped Yang’s reputation precedes it, as you can tell from the myriad newspaper and magazine reviews plastered on the wall. The ped yang (grilled duck, B60-B100 for a plate) is very tender and flavorful, while their bamee (noodles with grilled duck, B45) comes with a nice texture and a super-fresh egg. Don't forget to try the shrimp wonton (B35), too: big chunks of shrimp stuffed inside a light dough.
1415 Charoenkrung Rd. (near Robinson Bangrak), 02-234-3755, 083-910-1444. Open daily 8am-8:30pm. www.prachakrestaurant.com.
Roti Bang Nong
Similar to Sapa Kafe, Roti Bang Nong is a community for the Muslim locals to chitchat over a cup of coffee or tea and sweet roti. Find a seat and try the roti—crispy-fried goodness on the outside and chewy on the inside—whipped up by the friendly couple who run the place.
In front of Charoenkrung Soi 103. Open Tue-Sun 6-10pm.
Sia
Sia is a very popular spot for beef noodles. The portions are big for the B60 price tag and it's got one addictive broth—full-flavored and well-balanced. The beef is tender and the intestines are properly cleaned. What makes it worth ordering another bowl is probably the kratiem jiew (fried garlic)—oh so fragrant.
Charoenkrung Soi 8, 02-622-4765. Open Mon-Sat 8am-2pm.
Silver Waves
Many flock here just for the homemade dim sum and 180-degree river view. The best time to visit is during their daily dim sum buffet lunch (11:30am-2:30pm [last order at 2pm]) at a reasonable B813 with more than 40 varieties. Be sure not to miss the fluffy melting custard cream bun and the deep fried taro puff. And if you swing by with a large family, we recommend asking for a corner table for an added touch of privacy.
36/F, Chatrium Riverside, 28 Charoenkrung Rd. 02-307-8888. Shuttle boat from Sathorn Pier. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.
Taitong
On par with Ar Ou, Tai Tong stall also offers up similar dishes—street Thai and Chinese favorites that are made with fresh and good-quality ingredients. Compare their pad mhee Hong Kong (B150-200) with their neighbors’ and also try the recommended krao proa pla (fish maw stew, B500).
Charoenkrung Soi 46, 086-978-5221. Open daily 6pm-1am (except holidays).
Yun Wo Yun
Just a few steps from Prajak is the old-school Yun Wo Yun. Pull up a chair here and try one of their numerous Chinese herbal drinks (B7 for a glass) like jab lieng, chrysanthemum tea or tiger herbal. Whether the health benefits they tout are actually true or not, we think it's fun to sample these bitter drinks made using recipes that have been passed down for more than 80 years. And for those who cook, they also offer special seasonings such as tao chiew (fermented bean paste), which a few popular Thai restaurants have claimed is really different from the normal bottle version found in supermarkets.
1443 Charoenkrung Rd. (across Robinson Bangrak), 02-234-8178. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.
Galleries
Modern Gallery
This a project by art collector Ritt Slipsophon, who has been active on the scene for over 20 years and previously ran 44 Arts Gallery. Here, the focus is on showcasing contemporary works by prominent Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee, Chalermchai Kositpipat and Angkarn Kalayanapong, as well as promoting emerging artists.
OP Garden, 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-238-6449. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm.
Serindia Gallery
Nestled in the cozy enclave of retail complex OP Garden, Serindia Gallery gives off the charming vibe of a minimalist post-colonial house. The high-ceilinged, almost hangar-like, interior sees pristine white walls, a seating area and a flat screen showing Serindia’s digital catalog. There’s also a mezzanine level where dozens of Serindia’s books are displayed.
OP Garden, 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com
Soy Sauce Factory
Speedy Grandma’s Thomas Menard has teamed up with Vincent Sung (Eclectic Lab) to transform this warehouse in Chinatown into a new art studio. Promising a New York industrial loft vibe with light installations, DJ booths, pop-up bar kitchen, cyclorama on the second floor and a rooftop view of the canal, this latest Charoenkrung art spot looks set to host to many gigs and parties.
24/2 Charoenkrung Soi 24 , 081-301-2669. www.soysaucefactory.com
Speedy Grandma
The blossoming art scene on Charoenkrung is in large part down to this quirky gallery which was founded by Lee Anantawat and Thomas Menard, who are always looking to keep things fresh. This renovated, raw-looking shophouse frequently hosts exhibitions from up and coming artists, talks and workshops, while it's also been the site of a guerilla flea market as well as experimental film screenings—and some pretty raucous opening parties.
672/50-52 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 089-508-3859. www.speedygrandma.com. Open daily 11am-7pm.
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